2024 Blog & Images - Osaka & Kyoto
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Day 27 - Tokyo to Osaka
Well, we made it with a minimum of fuss. The accommodation was interesting with 3 single beds but we made it work. Having travelled by myself for so long, you get used to working to your own clock. The next few weeks will be interesting but fun.
I lucked out again with the plane seating. First of all, we got the right side of the plane to get a spectacular view of Mt Fuji (a bit of homework goes a long way). Secondly, I got a spare chair again so plenty of arm room and the seats on ANA are roomy so double bonus. It is from a plane that you can truly get some idea how congested Tokyo, and to a lesser extent Osaka is. It seems that people are living on top of each other when you walk around the streets and this is reinforced when you are provided a bird’s eye view. So we finally made it to our apartment in Shinsaibashi which is pretty close to Dotonbori. When we finally worked out how to get in, we found a place which was much bigger than our last lodgings. Two double beds however and being the oldest, well let’s just say pity is taken with both hands.Â
The place we decided to go after sorting out some groceries was down to the canal. There is something about this place that assaults your senses but drags you back every time you are here. It attracts all sorts due to the noise, the lights, the food. It certainly is a sensory overload with the sights, sounds and the smells that emanate from this place. This is popular culture with a capital P & C because if I doesn’t sell here, you simply won’t see it. I have to be truthful, I do the area fascinates but after a couple of days of travel. We dropped into CoCo’s Curry for a spot of dinner. There is something about Japanese curry that is unique and seeing it was the first establishment I ever ate at in Japan 7 years ago, it was definitely nice to have a late dinner there. After the meal (which was quite filling), it was time to head back and just chill out, literally and figuratively.
Morning and the flight to Osaka
Night - Dotonbori and surrounds
Day 28 - Osaka
Thank god for refrigerators, milk and cereal. I have honestly missed just cereal in the morning. Maybe it’s the normality that you crave at times but it was nice to just have something simple. Well getting three people sorted took an appropriate amount of time but we had a semblance of a plan in place so the first port of call was Americatown or Amerikamura as it is known in Osaka. It is an area full of retail and entertainment, so it was quite colourful in its own right. It was my first time visiting there and it was kind of funky. You can see how this place has been influenced by the US, right down to the Brooklyn Dodgers cap I saw in a second-hand shop (which proliferate the area). The one thing I did love was the light poles which were in the shape of very thin robots (if that is the best way to describe them). They were leaning over and all were in slightly different poses. I also tried a Godzilla burger at MacDonalds as per Luke’s suggestion. This was a piece of pop culture that let me say, was tried but didn’t overly succeed. It wasn’t the worst thing I have ever tasted but I’m not racing back. Anyway, I am travelling with others so it is good to share.
Osaka Castle was the next port of call as Luke has never been there before as well as Matthew. While I had visited there a few times, it was nice to enter from a different spot which allowed a different perspective on the place. The Hokoku Shrine which is dedicated to former ruler Toyotomi Hideyoshi was on the way to the castle and a good opportunity to explain to Matt as well as Luke a little about Shintoism. I am by no means an expert and I am acutely aware that I don’t want to turn the trip into a history lesson. I think they both appreciated knowing a little bit more about the site as well as the history of the castle itself. The castle itself, while not original is a stunning sight and it is a must to see at some of a trip here. We made it back to recharge the phone as well as all our batteries.
After a couple of hours of break, it was off to Tennoji to take in the sites of the market and tower. Again, this was Luke’s first time here so it was nice to show him a few different places that he has not seen. The area is really an interesting and a little less frantic than Dotonburi. I first visited here with Tracy last time we were here but while I could get her up in the tower, the Luke and Matt couldn’t be convinced. It was a bit of a shame as you get a great view from up there but it was a few yen saved so no problems. From here it was off to hit a few baseball’s at some batting cages in Umeda. We did this the last time I was Japan with Luke and thought it might be a fun way to finish off the day. I made my way home while the Matt & Luke ventured out for a couple of hours. It’s nice for them to share some time and for me to catch up with this stuff. Kyoto tomorrow and to get the JR Passes sorted.
Morning - Amerikamura & Osaka Castle
Evening - Tennoji & Umeda
Day 29 - Kyoto
Yesterday was a pretty huge day for Matt and Luke so we got off to a slightly later start than usual. We had to activate the JR tickets and reserve our seats for Monday’s trip to Kanazawa so it seemed like the right time to head to Kyoto. There were a few things that I hadn’t done and a few more that Luke hadn’t seen so best to start ticking a couple of boxes.
Our first stop after getting off the train was to the Higashi Hongan-ji Temple. It stands out due to its proximity to the station but also because of its size. The 76 metre-long hall is one of the largest wooden structures in the world and the story as to how they moved the huge wooden poles to build it was equally amazing. Originally built in the early 1600’s, it was rebuilt in the 19th century after a fire. There is an example of the rope made out of hemp and human hair that was required to get the logs from the mountains to the complex. It was roughly 70 metres in length and used the hair of the followers as the hemp was too weak. We were lucky as we got to catch the backend of a ceremony and have a relatively uncrowded experience. The temple grounds itself is huge and highlights the difference between the Shrines we have been visiting.Â
From here it was onto the Manga Museum a bit further on up the road. Luke in particular was wanting to go here as he had missed out on his previous visits. I had been here on my first visit in 2017 but it was nice to go back. Set in an old school, the first thing that hits you is the amount of people sitting and reading Manga. While I know it has a presence in Australia, it is difficult to comprehend the scope of its popularity here in Japan. There is Manga for all people covering a range of areas and age groups. Just to see people reading is something that we have partially lost in Western culture. Another area that fascinated me when I first walked through the site is the education area of the site. They have school books from the 30’s & 40’s and while not as overtly militarised as school books from Germany from the same period, the military influence is very much present. The idea that the express purpose of the old school and museum both centre around education made the actual premises very apt by maintaining that sense of learning. Another thing that caught my eye was the original manga that the Phantom Agents originated from. I think it was the helmet that caught my eye but when I looked at it further, it became more and more familiar. I later found out that the manga was actually the Shonen Ninja Butai Gekko Kanzenban Vol. 1. Basically the Phantom Agents in their literary form, an important find for someone who was on the cusp of the baby boomer period. There was also a Mighty Atom sighting or two throughout the museum and a Gundam thrown in for good measure.
We headed back to Osaka for some dinner and a little bit of rest. The latter we achieved but being a Saturday night in Osaka, made the former a valiant but futile adventure. All I can say is thank god for Lawson’s and a comfortable apartment to ward of the cold. Tomorrow I might get my wish to conquer Mt Inari fingers crossed.
The trip to Kyoto & Higashi Hongan-ji Temple
Manga Museum & the rest of the day
Day 30 -Mt Inari-Fushimi
Well, I can now say that I have made it up to the top of the mountain. Mt Inari to be precise at the Fushimi Inari Shrine. I was thwarted back in 2017 by bad light and only reached level 6, which provided a stunning view of Kyoto but this time I was determined to make it to the top. I wasn’t quite sure how my knee would hold up but I wasn’t going to walk away from this region without at least trying.
With Luke and Matthew in toe, we made the journey back to Kyoto and then on to the shrine. The mountain itself is a sacred space and it is littered with shrine’s all the way up the mountain to the shrine area at the top. It is also distinguishable by the hundreds of torii gates all the way up and down the mountain. You tend to have to walk with the masses for the first few levels but it definitely thins out as you go further up. I have said it before but I love the way how the Japanese approach the worship of the gods at these shrines. This one in particular is to the fox (which is common to Inari shrines throughout Japan). Half way up, I listened to a man chanting a prayer which mixed with the serenity of the mountain, was quite magical. Well to cut a long story short, I left Luke & Matt at stage 5 and carried on to conquer the unconquerable (well plenty have, it just seems like a dramatic way to describe it). Just as I made it to the top it started to lightly rain so my descent needed to be a little more mindful than it should have been. I met up with the boys at station 6 for a celebratory ice-cream (they had already had theirs) and it was back down to the train and then on to Osaka for our final night.
After a brief reset, we wandered down to Dotonbori for one last venture into the neon maelstrom that is the canal area. I had missed out on Takoyaki earlier in the trip but this time I was joined by Matt on a seat as we watched the canal tours go past. When it comes down to it, it really doesn’t get much more Osaka than this. All in all, it has been fun here and while we missed one or two things, you can never quite fit everything in. Tomorrow it’s off to Kanazawa for hopefully a slightly quieter experience.