2024 Blog & Images - Sapporo

 

 

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Day 23 – Flight to Sapporo

Well, the one good thing that came out of today is that I got to see Haneda Airport Terminal 2. Getting through security was a breeze after finally finding the right counter to check in at. My plane was to leave from Gate 69 which was about 600m from where I checked in through the security gates. So, no problems, I saunter down to the gate, treat myself to an ice cream and drink and proceed to sit and wait. Then I get a notification on the phone that the plane has been changed to Gate 60 so pull up stumps, saunter back the 600 m from whence I came and find myself another seat. No problems with the shift as I had got to the airport early so had a bit of time to kill anyway. Then I get another notification that there had been another gate change, this time to Gate 59. The one thing that I learnt from the experience was that this airport is bloody huge.

So, the flight was good and as much as I love the bullet trains here, one and a half hours compared to over 8 is really no comparison. Throw in the fact that frequent flyer points kicked in and the plane won hands down this time around. After a 35 min train trip to Sapporo from the airport, I was greeted with ice everywhere. I thought the issue of carting a bag through snow was daunting, this is a whole new experience. I would conservatively estimate about 70 metres on one side of the road was ice and that was something that didn’t enthuse me one bit. I started looking for underground options and eventually made my way to the hotel. The idea of walking around in fading light on a less than stable surface didn’t fill me with much confidence so I stayed in. Sometimes, discretion is the better part of valour as they say.

The whole automated check-in thing at hotels here is something I’m getting used to as well. Pretty cool actually, put your details and out pops your card and breakfast vouchers.  

Day 24 – Sapporo

Whatever I saw in Europe in regards to winter was dwarfed when compared to what I experienced today. Don’t get me wrong, what I experienced in the first 3 weeks of the trip was absolutely amazing and I loved every minute of it. This, however, was a different level of snow & winter that I have ever experienced. When I arrived yesterday and saw the ice on the streets, discretion was considered the better part of valour and sunrise would make more sense as the right to time to explore. The decision was the right one based on my first foray into the Sapporo streets. Every street corner had at least an inch thick of ice and at times, along the pavement. My first stop, the Botanical gardens was absolutely stunning with the snow covering everything.  I wandered down to Odori Park where most of the main sculptures are created for the Snow Festival starting in a couple of weeks. The park itself was closed due to the construction on the ice sculptures but what was being built could only be described as amazing. I had planned to travel to Otaru by train but had to shelf that idea due to train delays (maybe tomorrow).

I ended up at Hokkaido Jingu (Shrine) which is adjacent to Maruyama Park (modelled on its namesake in Kyoto). This is where the term “winter wonderland” would fit perfectly. Honestly, the beauty of what I saw made it nigh on impossible to capture the image. I love the manner in which the Japanese worship the deities at Shinto shrines. It seems so simple and personalised as well as generous in allowing others to share the ritual. From here it was onto the fish markets which may need another look tomorrow.

All in all an amazing place and maybe a visit to the Beer Museum tomorrow for my first of the trip.

Morning - Botanical Gardens, Odori Park & Station

Morning - Botanical Gardens, Odori Park & Station

Day 25 – Otaru & Sapporo

Well my last full day in Sapporo and it started off with close enough to a blizzard. So down to breakfast, back to bed and up at the crack of 10am (to make up for the sleep that I had missed). The breakfast by the way in the JR East is unbelievable. I’ve be going big as I have not really much during the day. Cereal with the lot, eggs, noodles, Hokkaido fried chicken, rice, miso soup, bacon, croissant and an orange juice with a coffee and there isn’t any more space left. I would recommend this place to anyone based on the location and the deal I got.

The decision was made to head off to a small coastal town called Otaru. It had been tipped to me and I had meant to go yesterday but train delays due to snow changed that plan. A 45 min train trip and I was greeted but a heavy dumping of snow. The sun had been out only 5 mins beforehand and by the time I had walked about 6 blocks down to the canal area, the sun was coming out again. It was like 3 seasons in a morning (can’t in all honesty throw summer in here) but it did unveil another amazing sight. This island just keeps giving and Otaru highlighted that. The city has a very long Ainu connection (indigenous Japanese from Hokkaido & Nth Honshu) and in 1899, an imperial decree established an open trading port with the US and British (history lesson over). The area near the canal has a very strong late 19th, early 20th century feel dating itself very much to the Meiji Period (1868-1912). All the old warehouses and buildings have been reconverted into a really pretty shopping district. The walk was slow as it was predominantly on ice all the way (I may need some of those ice cleats next time) and was a little treacherous in areas. This is something that I have come to except in my time in Hokkaido and while you never get truly used to it, you get better at coping with it. I stopped off to have the nicest green tea ice cream I have ever had. From here it was further down the road to the steam clock but just unfortunately missed its hourly ritual, so it was off to the train (which was delayed due to the snow haha) and back to Sapporo.

My last stop for this leg of the trip was to the Sapporo Beer Museum. This was the first beer brewed in Japan and after walking on ice for another km and a half, I certainly wasn’t going to leave without at least trying one. Every walk of life in Japan today was influenced so much by the Meiji and the adoption of Western technology into a traditional Asian culture. Beer adopted German methods as far back as the late 1870’s and the museum displayed the western influence, even in the advertising. The tasting room had closed 30 mins earlier, but they had a beer garden, so it was a quick slide over and it was definitely worth the effort.

Sapporo is absolutely phenomenal, and I would love to come back in the near future and witness the snow festival. Anyway, back to Tokyo tomorrow to meet up with Luke & Matthew (on his first o/s trip. Looking forward to it.

Morning - Otaru

Afternoon - Sapporo Beer Museum & one last look

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