2024 – Vienna – A Teach Abroad

2024 Blog & Images - Vienna

Vienna

A city of history, statues and plenty to see. I know this will be different to Poland so head first.

Day 10 - Vienna

Today was more about getting out and seeing what there was to be seen. This was partially due to the weather, which as you guessed it, was still snowing and partially because I had no real idea of what Vienna had to offer.

To say this place is the city of statues is not an understatement. I thought London had trumped everyone, but this place would give it a run for its money. The first one I saw was actually one of the most interesting ones I came across all day. The statue to Dr Karl Lueger (former mayor of Vienna) stands out not so much due to its size (which it is imposing), but for the graffitiing with words such as “shame” & “nazi” written over it. Turns out he was an anti-semite and the monuments existence (which he planned himself before he died) has been extremely controversial ever since. When I was looking up the statue, a local guide on Google stated, “I think it’s good that Vienna authorities don’t take down this monument … it is a much stronger reminder about anti-humane and dangerous ideas we should still avoid.”

From here it was across the road into the Stadtpark and the obligatory statues. There is something about parks in winter that I just love. I have written about them in the London Park section on the website, but the starkness is strangely eerie. Add in the snow and you truly have a memorable sight. Statues to Strauss and Schubert among others made this a pleasant stroll (even though I did see someone slip over on the black ice). I kept wandering until I ended up at the Monument in honour of the soldiers of the Soviet Army killed in the Vienna offensive. Erected in 1945, the memorial pays tribute to the 17,000 Soviet troops killed during the 1945 Vienna Offensive. The text on the front of the memorial reads “Monument to the soldiers of the Soviet Army, who have fallen for the liberation of Austria from fascism” and it also has been the centre of some controversy at times.

By this stage, the temperature had got to -4C (feels like -13C) and I desperately needed to get out of the snow and cold. It was back to hotel and a cup of tea, thaw out before heading out later.

Back out into it and the snow had mercifully stopped. My new nemesis was the dreaded black ice. The first time I noticed it was when I was standing opposite the 19^th century St Michael’s Church. The ground was feeling a little strange and I saw the ice where the bitumen used to be. I handled it throughout the rest of the day when a few slight slips but no major catastrophes to report. Very gingerly, it was onto to the Volksgarten and Rathaus and neither disappointed. My only wish was that I had made it there a few. Days earlier based on the size of the Christmas Market site that was being dismantled. I thought that the skating rink in Cologne was impressive, but what it was miniscule in comparison to the one which was being filled in here. The work did restrict access to the Rathaus which in one respect was a shame, but it did lay the seeds of thought firmly in my mind.

The Parliament building and Hofburg where the next few sites to be visited. The Parliament was the epitome of Vienna with the statues adorning the entrance to the building. With the Rathaus as a backdrop, it is a sight that will stay with me for a long time. The Hofburg, built in the 13^th century, was the former principal imperial palace of the Habsburg dynasty and from 1946, the official residence and workplace of the president of Austria. While this seems to be a recurring theme, it was difficult to put into words the sight that greets when you first set eyes on this place. I suppose it encapsulates everything that the Hapsburgs were and for that matter, Vienna. A magnificent building that help to end my first very cold and snowy day in Vienna on a high.

Morning - including Stadtpark, Karlsplatz, St Charles Church, Soviet Monument

Afternoon - including St Michael's Church, Rathaus, Volksgarten, Hofburg & Maria Theresian Platz

Day 11 - Vienna

Well today brought about a couple of changes from yesterday’s first foray into Vienna.

No snow or black ice (still around -5C but not as bad as yesterday)
Based upon some suggestions, there was more of a plan.

First stop was the Museum of Military History (I won’t attempt the German spelling). The site is dedicated to Austrian military history covering different stages of the Austrian Empire from the 16th century through to 1945. The evolution of warfare is highlighted through the various exhibits on offer from victories over the Ottoman Empire, the 1848 Revolutions through to their defeat by the Prussians in 1866. Unfortunately, the WWII section was closed for renovation, but the WWI area was well set out and provided plenty of insight into the Austrian experience. Probably the most interesting piece of history on show was the car Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in, which in turn triggered the beginning of WWI. On display was also the uniform he was wearing at the time of his assassination. While you would expect to see something horrific, an innocuous hole just below the collar (which is evident in the image) was the entry point of the bullet which killed him. While the museum is different to similar sites such as the Imperial and Australian War Museums, it doesn’t lose anything in comparison.

After a couple of hours of wandering through the museum it was off to another suggestion from an old schoolmate, the Austrian Nation Library & State Hall. This place was on another level. Built in the 18th century, the frescoes are presented in a Baroque style and are absolutely stunning. It has been described as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world and the description isn’t far from the truth. The dome is an amazing sight, sitting 30 metres above the floor and featuring the deification of Emperor Charles VI. There was also an exhibition being held by the post-war photographer, Yoichi Okamoto called Image Power Politics, so there was a real mix of the old and the new. This building encapsulates the grandeur which I would have associated with Vienna prior to arriving and just keeps reinforcing this perception.

The last stop of the day (after a recharge and lunch) was St Stephen’s Cathedral. While I didn’t make it to the catacombs, the building from both outside & inside is amazing. Rebuilt in the 14th century, the largely gothic structure stands out across the Vienna skyline. Places of worship (whatever the denomination) are always an interesting window into the people and culture of the city that you are in. St Stephen’s was no different in this respect. The more I search around Vienna, the more I realise what an amazing city it is. Bring on tomorrow.

Morning - Military Museum & The Austrian State Library

Afternoon - St Stephen's Cathedral

Day 12 - Vienna

Well, my final full day in Vienna and I’ve accepted the fact that it is impossible to see everything this city has to offer. With that in mind, I decided to forgo a few of the bigger places (keep them for next time) and take it a fraction easier today.

I got started around 10.30 to avoid the cold and with no firm plan in mind, I ended up in a small park called the Burggarten. There is so much green space in this city, and it really is a pleasure to just soak it all in. The starkness of winter has a strange beauty to it and with a smattering of snow still left about, it was definitely a case of serenity now. This park was once part of the Imperial Gardens and it still held that feeling of grandeur. Statues to Mozart & Franz Josef as well an enormous glass house called the Palm House made this relatively small space stand out.

It was then across the road into Maria Theresien Platz named after the former 18th century Empress. I visited here briefly on Monday but this time with the sun out, I was able to really appreciate the surroundings. With the backdrop of both the Fine Arts and Natural History Museums on either side, the central monument blended effortlessly into the Viennese landscape. It was a fitting tribute to someone who both guided and galvanised the Austrian Empire. The Museum Quarter was next and unfortunately, the Mumok modern art museum was closed for renovations. I probably would have liked to visit it but that is the luck of low-season tourism.

My first and only major stop was to the Jewish Museum. It is situated over two sites and really focusses on a more localised overview of the Jewish community in Vienna. As you would expect, there was reference to the holocaust, but it went further to embrace the foundations of the community as well as the present day. I thought the areas that related to the Jewish links to football clubs, not only in Austria but throughout Europe, was an interesting feature. Throw in a photographic exhibition and it was onto the second site at Judenplatz. The most intriguing part of the part of the museum was the archaeological dig which uncovered the foundations of a medieval synagogue. The building, destroyed in 1421 was excavated in the mid 1990’s and was the centrepiece of the museum’s second site. With the aid of IT, the dig came alive.

After my daily recharge and lunch, it was back out for my last hurrah. The tram just outside my motel took me to a group of apartments called the Hundertwasser Haus designed by the architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. To say this place is unique is an understatement, I kind of like the term quirky. A local guide called it a patchwork building and he isn’t too far from the truth. Hundertwasser didn’t believe in straight lines, which is quite apparent with the design of the exterior and courtyard.

My second last stop was one that I had been planning on since Monday, the Wiener Riesenrad. Built in 1897, the giant Viennese Ferris Wheel has featured in a number of movies, most notably for me “The Third Man” with (among others) Orson Wells. It was coincidental that I saw the film advertised earlier in the day (maybe next time). Apparently, there is a third man tour that will also take you into the sewers to trace the final scene of the film. I think I will leave that to Harry Lime but would be tempted to view the film here (little like Metropolis in Berlin) if I make back here. My final stop was to get a quick glimpse of the Danube before heading back. It seemed only fitting that it would be the last place I see before heading back to pack and get myself sorted for the next stop.

I have to be honest and say prior to coming here, I wasn’t overly fussed about this part of the trip. After 3 days here, I can honestly say that I am so grateful that I made it. It is one of the most beautiful, tourist friendly places I have ever been and can’t wait for my next visit (snow or no snow). Tomorrow it’s off to Nuremberg.