2025 Japan Blog
To paraphrase an old catchcry, here we go once more into the wild blue yonder. Japan is the destination this time and while I have been here four times previously, I will be trying to embrace a range of new adventures. This land fascinates me, the people, the culture, the way they go about life seems to draw me back time and time again. Kyoto, Hiroshima, Osaka, Hakodate, Sapporo, Morioka & finally Tokyo are the main destinations over the next 24 days. The world is such a small place and at a time of uncertainty and disruption, embracing what it has to offer seems to be the best way to grow both intellectually and personally. At present, tolerance of others and their differences seems to be a commodity that is on the decline, and if travel is a vaccine against this, then dose me up.
Day 1 - The flight
One lingering regret that I have when I set off on one of these adventures is that my wife isn’t with me. This time around, we have been fortunate to have spent time with the family on a cruise, which is her preferred method of travel.
The day started like most other journey days, with the obligatory going through customs, etc. Flying ANA is always a pleasure and having the ability to sit in a lounge prior to take-off allows for a bit of peace and quiet. The flight itself was relatively empty which allowed for boarding to be quick. Comparing this to a full Emirates flight like I took in September is like the proverbial chalk and cheese. The food was lovely, going with the international choice as the eel wasn’t really my bag. I normally always choose the Japanese option, but the fillet steak and shrimp entrée won this time. I watched the movie “Living” and can see why Bill Nighy was nominated for an Academy award. It is the type of film that keeps reinforcing why life needs to be lived and that time is fleeting. If you haven’t seen it, do so as it will help you to reassess what is important.
The one great thing about travelling to Japan is that after 9 odd-hours of flying, you have arrived and there is only a 2 hour time difference. Add to that the ability to have a nap, certainly beats sitting in a cramped space. Getting through customs, etc was easy and the train trip to Shinagawa was without drama. The 8 minute walk up a hill of death (or so it seemed at the time),is something I could have done without. Anyway, a good sleep and a trip to 7-11 will help ease me out of the first day in Japan.
The flight
Day 2 - Tokyo to Kyoto
The day started simple enough. Had a good sleep, woke up, showered and checked out of the hotel. Next stop was the JR East Office to validate the rail pass and get myself on the first of many Shinkansen rides for this trip. Fortunately, I didn’t have to wait more than 30 minutes for my train and there was a glimmer of hope that I would finally capture Mt Fuji in all its glory. This didn’t quite turn out the way I had hoped . A few clouds hovered around the summit but it was as close as I have ever come. Oh well, there is always a next time (fingers crossed).
After arriving in Kyoto and booking into my motel for the next four days, I headed straight for the Hongan-ji and Kosho-ji temples. To be truthful, I hadn’t planned it that way but I had seen then on my way to the hotel. It was close, I was curious and the rest is history. Both are Jodo-Shinshu sect temples but with slight differences. The larger Hogan-ji temple is world heritage listed and serves as the head temple of the Jodo Shinshu Honganji-ha sect of Buddhism. The serene nature of both sites helped to sweep away the past two days of travel. Places like this certainly help you to centre your being and relax. While I am not a buddhist, there is something special about just sitting in a temple and allowing your thoughts to just flow. In a world that flashes by at the rate of knots, it’s nice to slow it back down to an amble occasionally. The last thing to do today was to finish off with a nice bowl of ramen. As they say, when in Japan … Ippudo at the station was the place last time and it served its purpose once again. One of the treats when coming to Japan is the food, tonight topped off the day nicely.
Travel - Tokyo to Kyoto
The Nishi Hongan-ji Temple
The Kosho-ji Temple
The night
Day 3 - Kyoto
Well my first real day to explore in Japan. The weather was spectacular and the opportunity to just go out and explore was too good great to pass up. My objective today was to finally make it to the Kiyomizudera Temple. It had been on my list on every previous visit but for one reason or another, I had never made it there. The walk through the city was roughly 3.5 km and I thought why not, I can get a bus any day of the week.
The first thing that hits you on reaching the area near the temple, is the hill you have to trudge up. Memories of Mt Inari-Fushimi came flooding back, especially when I made it to the steps at the foot of the site. Once I was face to face with Kiyomizudera, you understand the importance of the site. Not only is it visually imposing, the serene nature of the complex tends to make you less aware of the crowds. Looking back at the main hall provided a breathtaking view of Kyoto city framed by the lush greenery of the surrounding forest. No words or images can truly encapsulate what you experience at the temple and surrounding grounds. Needless to say it is a one of those magical moments that travel presents you with.
From Kiyomizudera, it was again on foot for further exploration of the Higashiyama District. The narrow lanes, wooden buildings and traditional merchant shops provides a real sense of the old capital city. While the area itself is not gigantic, there is so much to see that it would take a full day to investigate it thoroughly. One spot I happened to stumble on was the Ryozen Kannon Temple. Built in the 1950’s, it centres around the goddess of mercy Ryozen and contains a memorial to the Unknown Soldier who perished in WWII. I read that it was the Buddhist alternative to the controversial Yasakuni Shrine in Tokyo. Based upon the sentiment in the memorial hall, I wish some leaders in the present day would take a look.The day finished with a wander through Maruyama Park, the Yasaka Shrine and Gion geisha district (even though a lot of the area is restricted). A lot of paces but a thoroughly absorbing day.
Walking to the Kiyomizudera Temple
Kiyomizudera Temple
Higashiyama District
Ryzon Kannon Temple & World's Unknown Soldier Memorial WWII
Yasaka Shrine & Maruyama Park
Otani Sobyo
Gion District
Day 4 - Himeji
Another day and another bucket list item ticked off. Stepping off the Shinkansen at Himeji Station, you are greeted by this amazing structure in the distance. Walking into the castle grounds is like stepping into a fairytale. Perched on top of a hill and with its brilliant white exterior, it dominates the landscape. I wandered through the Western Bailey first then up all 7 floors of the main castle in my socks. Maintaining the integrity of the castle is an important undertaking so if my tootsies have to be on show, it’s a price I’m willing to pay (plus my feet were too big for the slippers on offer). The view of the surrounding area once you get to the top is stunning. You can imagine, what a daunting task it would have been to have attempted to try and attack this structure in the 1600’s. Wandering through its sturdy wooden interiors, The intricate design, defensive features and its sheer uniqueness are some of the reasons why it is World Heritage listed. With an hour to kill after leaving the castle, it was on to the neighbouring Kokoen Gardens. While not as big as some of the Japanese gardens I have been to in Hiroshima for instance, there is so much of the culture wrapped up into these gems. Engaging in Japanese culture is experiencing a range of things and gardens are definitely a part of this. Different themes are presented as you walk through the site and I can only imagine the colours that would be presented to you in Autumn or Spring. Just a little note about the way the city presented itself to and from the Castle. I absolutely loved the street art and things like manhole electricity covers. It gave the place a rather funky feel (the saxophonist sculpture I’m still not sure about haha) which gave me as a visitor, a real welcoming vibe. As a fine musician once said, “Some days are diamonds”, this was one off those days.
Himeji Castle
Kokoen Gardens
The trip to and from the Castle
Day 5 - Kyoto
An absolutely huge day, trying my best to cram in as much of Kyoto as humanly possible. 29,000 paces and a tick under 23 km walked by the time I hit the hay. The first stop was at the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, another first time visit for me. While the area extends down to the river and into beautiful forest area, the gigantic bamboo stalks are what most come to see. Thank god I decided to leave early as by 10.30am, the crowds had started to descend on the area. It is quite amazing how gigantic the bamboo grows and was definitely worth the trip out to see it. Once again, thank god for travel during off-peak season. Next was to the Kyoto Imperial Palace and Gyoen Gardens. Both myself and Tracy tried back in 2019 to visit here but we chose the one day in the week it was closed. Entering the park (which is huge by the way), I stumbled across a small smattering of out of season cherry blossom. It’s nice to get the occasional little surprise, it certainly keeps you on the look out for other things. The Palace itself was very cool and very Imperial (as you would expect). To think that important documents which helped to mould modern Japan such as the Charter Oath were presented here, gives a person a the sense of history of the site. I also like how the palace is free to visit (like the Imperial Palace in Tokyo) … maintaining cultural heritage is essential for all societies. The next stop was the Nishiki markets. The arcade, the smells, the food were all amazing and throw in a healthy dose of bedlam, and you have a good description of the markets. The night was finished off at a very cool little blues bar called the Bar Out Loop Way. The owner Satoshi, played at many festivals in Australia and is definitely worth a visit. Thank you Kyoto for living up to my expectations and in many ways, exceeding them. On to Hiroshima tomorrow.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Zennyo Ryūō Shrine & Nijo Castle
Kyoto Gyoen National Park
Kyoto Imperial Palace
Nishiki Market
Kyoto at night
Day 6 - Kyoto to Hiroshima
Today was primarily about getting from one to another, setting myself up and seeing what we could squeeze in. The ride from Kyoto to Hiroshima was relatively incident free. I have become accustomed to space on the Shinkansen but the ride from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima was down to an 8 car train. This in turn meant that the green car was a little bit more compact, meaning the bags were up as no extra chair next to me. First world problems I know but a still enough room to be comfortable. After booking in it was off to the Peace Memorial Park on foot. while I have visited before, there is something about the clarity that this place brings. Sitting by the river opposite the dome, and trying to imagine the carnage that took place on that August day in 1945 is a sobering process. Also being here in the afternoon puts a slightly different take on the structures with the angle of the light. This truly is a wonderful testament to peace in a world that seems hell bent on anything but. After wandering around the park for a good hour and a bit, it was off to Okonomimura for my favourite Japanese meal, okonomiyaki. This is not only a gastronomic feast, but a cultural phenomenon. This place is 60 years old and has three floors of individual traders who specialise in this meal. A little slice of heaven to complete Day 6 and my first day in this city.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
To & From the Peace Park
Day 7 - Hiroshima
Today was one of those strange days that you just have to go with the flow on. While everything has gone amazingly well so far this trip, we did hit a slight snag. My first port of call today was to the Kintaikyo Bridge, originally built in 1673 and rebuilt in 1953 after being damaged by a typhoon. The bridge has a 5 arch span and is totally wooden. Little did I know that renovations began in December of last year and plan to continue mid March of this year. In one way, I was a little disappointed not to see the bridge sans scaffolding. In a positive light, the fact that they are maintaining the structural integrity means that it will last a good while longer. As it took over an hour to get here, I decided to pay the toll to walk across it, as I thought I may never get the chance again. The next stop wasn’t really planned for today but spontaneity and adaptability is the name of the game when travelling. On my way to the bridge, the train took me past the stop for Miyajima Island. So it sort of made sense to take the opportunity on my way back into town. From the first time I visited here back in 2017, the island has always been a favourite of mine. It is so peaceful to walk around and with the added bonus of less crowds, it really was a no brainer. I took the opportunity ti take some video footage of the visit so hopefully I will be able to compile into a useable piece. The day was finished off with my first Japanese Curry for the trip, another little delight. Tomorrow Kure for my last day in Hiroshima.
Kintaikyo Bridge
Miyajima Island
Day 8 - Hiroshima
Well another interesting start to the day. Yesterday it was restoration, today it was Tuesday closure day. I travelled roughly an hour to Kure to visit the Yamata Naval Museum only to find on arrival (as well as other tourists), that it was closed on Tuesdays. So when handed lemons, you make lemonade. I ended up going around the site, having a look at what it served up (as well as a lifesize submarine across the road). The Yamata was a WWII battleship that is very famous in Japan, as is the museum that commemorates Japanese naval history. The city is still dominated by the ship yards so I took the opportunity to wander a few km’s to see the dockyards where the Yamata was built. The one thing you have to be with travel is adaptable, if something doesn’t work then move on to an alternative. After an hour break back in the hotel, it was off to Hiyajima Park. Little did I know that there was a heck of a climb once I got there but the panoramic views countered the agony haha. You really do need a couple of hours to do this site due to the sheer size. It contains a Manga Library, Museum of Contemporary Art and numerous monuments. The one I was most interested in was the Hiyajima Military Cemetery. Perched on top of peak overlooking Peace Promenade, it was nice way to finish my adventures here in Hiroshima. The differences between here and other cities that I have visited in Japan are very evident, The wide open streets and modern feel is in stark contrast to that of Kyoto. A bit of a look in Don Quijote and one more visit to Okonoimura and my time here is done. Osaka tomorrow.
Kure
Hijiyama Park
Shopping, Walking & Night
Day 9 - Hiroshima to Osaka
Another moving day, this time from Hiroshima to my digs at Shin-Osaka station. Seeing I am only here for 2 nights, it made sense to stay basically on top of where my next train leaves from. Actually, the day started off quite interestingly in Hiroshima. Apparently they are retiring these yellow shinkansen known as Dr Yellow (which are used to inspect the tracks) from service. Well while I was waiting for my bullet train, ol’ Dr Yellow comes through and stopped right on my platform. It was like train spotter heaven as the people were happily capturing a little slice of history. It’s nice when the unexpected occurs in your favour.
Anyway, I got in at roughly 2 pm, got my self sorted and was out on the Osaka loop by around 3 pm. Really today wasn’t anything new, but more of a chance to stretch the legs and get reacquainted with the city. First stop was the area known as Shinsekai with its Showa period feel. These is something really quirky about the area and it is probably one of my favourite areas in Osaka. It’s got a bit of a grungy feel to it which in my mind, makes it that little bit more enjoyable. Next it was onto the Kuromon Markets. I visited here back in 2018 and just like the Nishiki Markets in Kyoto, the smells that you experience in this place is phenomenal. Everything from snow crabs right through to fresh fruiot can be found here. Last cab off the rank for today was Dotonbori and the Glicoman pilgrimage. This place, no matter what time of the day or year is nuts. There are so many people here that it becomes crazy just walking around. I did try and get my Takoyaki from my favourite place but the line was way too long. Will give it a burl tomorrow as it would be like going to Hiroshima and not having Okonomiyaki.
Dr Yellow
Shinsekei
Kuromon Markets
Dotonbori
Day 10 - Osaka
Last day in Osaka. It has been a bit of a lightning visit so as to break up the journey between Hiroshima and Hokkaido. Having said that, I got to do a few things today that was really interesting. The first stop was the Asahi Museum. After being involved in the setting up of the museum at school, I have found that some interesting ideas spring from the most unlikeliest of places. Be it train museums in Nuremberg or Holocaust museums in Berlin, ideas and new ways to do things can be unearthed anywhere. The museum provides a tour of the factory and a sampling room (all included in the coast of 1000 yen). Two exhibits that stood out was the use of VR that had you follow a certain molecule through the brewing process. The other was the Super Dry Go Ride where you got to follow the journey of a can going through the canning process. Seems weird but it was really cool, especially the vibrating seats and mist. This place of those gems you stumble on and are glad you found it. Next stop was to the Namba Yasaka Shrine which is tucked away within the buildings near Namba Station. The dragon that takes a prominent place in the site is unique and something I have never seen before. I love how Shinto shrines are all dedicated to different dieties such as foxes at Fushimi-Inari, but this is one out of the box. Throw in a memorial to the battleship IJN Mutsu (items of which can found outside the Yamata Museum in Kure) and this is a really interesting place. Last few places visited was back to the canal to rectify the lack of Takoyaki from last night and a visit to Amerikamura. I love the quirkiness of the area, even down to the offset light poles. Anyway, 8-9 hours in a train tomorrow as I am northward bound. Hokkaido and zero degrees awaits.
Asahi Museum
Namba Yasaka Shrine
Namba & Dotonbori
Amerikmura
Day 11 - Osaka to Hakodate
A large part of today has been taken up with travel. Starting at 7.18am in Shin-Osaka and ending at 3.30pm at Hakodate, a few things happened on the way. First of all, my old nemesis Mt Fuji finally succumbed to my persistence and presented herself without cloud for the first time. It truly is a majestic view, albeit rather quick from the seat of a flying Shinkansen. As I alluded to a few days back, travel is all about the spins and roundabouts, you take the good with the not so good. Today was a good one. Even sitting back and watching the outside world change from winter to colder winter to out and out snow was really cool. By the time I hit Shin-Hakodate, the temperature had dropped to zero and it was snowing (the shape of things to come I suppose). After booking in to the hotel, I decided to rug up and go for a bit of a walk to stretch my legs. I stumbled on another little gem, that being the memorial to Hijikata Toshizō, a famed warrior from the Edo period. He lost his life in 1869 in the final battle of the Boshin War against the Imperial Army. His life has since become popular in popular culture from TV through to manga. Amazing the things you stumble onto in life.
Mt Fuji
The trip to Hakodate
The Memorial to Hijikata Toshizō
Day 12 - Hakodate
Well that was what you can call an interesting day. The sun came out, then it snowed, so on and so forth. I have to be honest, I know very little about Hakodate so this trip is really a journey into the unknown. The next couple of days, I am going to be guided by websites as to where to go. The first stop today was to the Morning Market which incidentally was just around the corner from the hotel. It is roughly four streets containing the freshest seafood you are likely to see. Tomorrow I might even try some of the more interesting choices, I viewed at the Morning Market Square. The rest of the morning revolved around the marina and old warehouse area. This is where I unfortunately came unstuck. My own fault really, I should have been fully aware of the icy ground. Thankfully nothing was broken but it was a good reminder to be careful. After a retreat back to the hotel to get in out of the heavy snow, it was off to Fort Goryokaku. The fort was built in the latter stages of the Tokugawa Shogunate (1860’s) and was the stage for the loyalists last stand in the Battle of Hakodate. It’s where Hijikata Toshizō was killed and the more you walk around this city, the more you realise how important this guy was. The tower across from the fort was next stop to get a bird’s eye perspective of the star shaped fort. Throw in a 360 degrees panorama of the city and you have a perfect end to the day. Tomorrow we do the ropeway and hopefully find some plastic spikes to stop me falling over again.
Hakodate Asaichi (morning market)
Ika Square
Toyoawacho - Warehouse Area
Fort Goryokaku
Goryokaku Tower
To & from the fort
Day 13 - Hakodate
Well my last full day in Hakodate and it was interesting to say the least. From somewhere I that I knew very little of, this has been a pleasant surprise. My first port of call today was the Motomachi area. Back in the 1850’s when the Japanese were forced to end their 250 years of seclusion, Hakodate was one of the first ports opened. This is the area that foreigners set up their operations and the legacy can still be felt today. This is largely in the various Christian churches scattered around the area. I missed a few of the other buildings but the view from the top of Hachiman-Zaka Slope, worth the trudge up the hill. Next was the Gokuku-jinja Shrine which originally built in 1869. It was to commemorate the imperial soldiers killed during the Battle of Hakodate. The shrine is also dedicated to those lost in other campaigns involving Japanese soldiers including the Satsuma Rebellion, Russo-Japanese War and WWII. From here it was onto Hakodate Park and while I was prepared to go further, a dying phone battery and memories of walking on ice from yesterday curtailed my walk. The final activity of the visit was the Hakodate Ropeway, atop of Mt.Hakodate. How do I sum up the experience? Am I glad I went? Yes. Would I go again? No. Was there a lot of people? Hell yeah. Was the view worth it? For the brief time I was able to see things, I would say definitely yes. I am not sure whether I took a wrong turn as I didn’t make it to the 2 floor, but I felt like we were just shunted through the area on one long line. The walk back in the dark was really cool and I found a couple more manhole covers (this is becoming an obsession). Sapporo tomorrow and the ice festival.
Motomachi
Gokoku-jinja Shrine
Hakodateyama & Hakodate Park
Hakodate Ropeway
Night time on the way back to the hotel
Day 14 - Hakodate to Sapporo
Today was really about getting from point A (Hakodate) to point B (Sapporo). The trip all up was around the 4 hour mark but really comfortable and well worth the money spent on going in the green car. The scenery was spectacular, as you would expect the further north you go. This is the part of the trip which if a title had to be given, it would be the highlight. Last year I was in Sapporo a week and half before the Ice Festival opened and was fascinated with the sculptures even at that point. I vowed to come back and witness it so here I am. Tomorrow is the opening day so I am really looking forward to immersing myself in what is to come. I think I have this walking on ice bit down better. Mind you, based on the diagrams online, I feel like I’m shuffling along like a 90 year old man who is chaffed. Personally, as long as falling over can be avoided, I don’t care. Anyway, tomorrow is the day so bring on the ice festival.
From Hakodate to Sapporo
In Sapporo with a preview of the ice festival
Day 15 - Sapporo
Well after seeing the some of the larger sculptures being made last year, I knew that I had to come and see it myself. Walking through Odori is spectacular but at the same time, pretty treacherous for a guy from Sydney. The sculptures, both big and small, are something that have to be seen to truly comprehend how amazing they are. How they look in the day in the daytime is I’m sure different to what you will see at night, that theory will be tested out tomorrow. The festival has two other sites, Sukukino which features ice sculptures and Tsu Dome which is more of a family friendly play area which I will be visiting tomorrow. I did the Sukukino area tonight after hitting Ramen Alley (which after an 1/2 hour wait, didn’t let down). I’ve always wondered how they go about making ice sculptures and apart from seeing the finished product, we got to see them designing as well as making some. Overall the level of workmanship in both sites has you just shaking your head as to the level expertise displayed. I always made a visit to the Sapporo Beer Museum. Even though I have been here before, we got some great ideas for the school museum from here. The way that the past is presented here is really effective and unobtrusive … it’s amazing where you can get ideas from. Asahi … VR goggles, Sapporo … the presentation of the past. Anyway, been a long day with a fair bit of walking and a little bit of slipping. Bring on tomorrow.
Sapporo Snow Festival - Odori Park
Sapporo Beer Museum
Ramen Alley
Sapporo Snow Festival - Ice World Susukino
Random shots through the day
Day 16 - Sapporo
Woke up this morning to -4C, what a difference a hemisphere can make in February. Thank god for thermals, as they have become my friend over the past week since being in Hokkaido. While the temperature sounds pretty extreme, to be truthful it’s not that bad. As long as you are dressed for it, it really isn’t a drama. Today’s first mission was to go in search of a manhole cover near the Sapporo Dome (which luckily wasn’t covered with snow). I love how different cultures, express who they are through unique ways. In Japan, one way is through the ornate presentation of manhole covers. I didn’t start looking for them before Himeji but now, they have started to become almost like an obsession. A couple more were found today and more hopefully later in the trip. A subway trip had me at the Tsu Dome for the third branch of the Snow Festival. This is the family friendly section which includes a range of rides and activities for basically everyone. Equally as treacherous footing wise as Odori, the place had a slightly different feel to it from the other two areas. I love how this festival caters for everyone and it is free. The only thing you have to watch out for is your feet and where they step. Last stop for this part of the trip was to venture back to Odori Park to view some of the sculptures at night. The horse sculpture and accompanying video was stunning (a video I took will follow when i get to the time to edit it). I am glad I got to see both sides of the presentation but as intrepid as I am, walking on ice has its limits. the decision was made that discretion was the better part of valour after a few sections. Thank you Sapporo, you certainly lived up to my expectations. Morioka next and then onto Tokyo.
Sapporo Snow Festival - Tsu Dome site
Sapporo Snow Festival - Ice World Susukino
Sapporo - Covers and other things
Sapporo Snow Festival - Odori Park Night
Day 17 - Sapporo to Morioka
Today was really all about two things; travel and snow. Over the past week, I have been hit with three hefty travel legs with today starting at 8.45am and finishing at roughly 4.15pm. By the time I got into Morioka it was snowing quite heavily. This and tiring legs led me straight to the hotel and in need of a rest. I did have a bit of wander for food but wasn’t really in the mood to go out. Supplies bought at the friendly Family Mart (the cutlet sandwich was not only reasonably priced, but tasty as well), it was straight back and up into the room. I love travel but you do forget how tiring it can get. Thank god the vast majority of my stops have been for three nights or more. There is nothing worse than a short stopover, you never get the feel for a place.
Travel from Sapporo to Morioka
Day 18 - Morioka
Even through the weather man told me it was -3, feels like -10. Even though on inspection through the window, you could see it was snowing heavily at times. I decided to summon the Mawson spirit and brave the conditions (ok maybe a bit dramatic, but it was cold). What I was focussed on today was the Iwate Park area. With the weather as it was, a bus was taken to site. The Sakurayama Shrine was first stop when I arrived. I love the fact that a collection of little eateries had sprung up as you walked under the torii gate. On entering the shrine, the combination of spirituality and snow combined to present a picture postcard vision. I’ve said it before but I love how the Shinto religion has system which embraces all into the practice. A short walk from here to Iwate Park and the ruins of the former Morioka Castle. The park itself during the spring months is a centre during sakura (cherry blossom season) in Morioka. Today, the snow gave it another unique look. The castle was completed in 1633 and remained the seat of the Nanbu clan until it was demolished in 1874. You get a sense of the size of the former structure through the walls that are still present in the park. The nature of Japanese castle’s means that there isn’t a lot of them left in their original state, either due to their timber structure or laws put in place when the Meiji came to to power in 1869. Last stop was the Morioka History and Culture Museum. The collection of local history was really well presented and great value for money at 300Y entrance fee. I am always fascinated how simple yet effective presentation approaches can be in a given space. The long walk back to hotel, a quick stop off at a Family Mart and a shop at Max Valu (a great shop) for supplies and my day was done. Sendai over the next couple of days, making sure to get full use of this JR Pass.
Sakurayama Shrine
Iwate Park
Morioka Castle Ruins
Morioka History and Culture Museum
Images from Morioka
Day 19 - Sendai
Today was a trip into Sendai from Morioka. The thing that greeted me was snow and ice. The first two sites that I wanted to visit, the Rinnoji Temple & Aoba Shrine, which I had to can due to heavy snow on the tracks delaying the trains. A recalibrate was needed and the path led straight to the morning marlets. No where as big as the one one in Hakodate for instance, I still love the sounds & smells that emanate from these places. The ground was a bit icy (as was a lot of Sendai for that matter) so the walk through was quick; fear will do that haha. Once I found the Sendai Tourist Loop, which took a bit of a search, it was off in earnest. My first stop was to the Zuihoji Temple & Zuihōden Mausoleum. The serene Buddhist temple surrounded by snow, presented a picture postcard image which was impossible to truly capture on camera. The mausoleum is the final resting place of Date Masamune, one of the most powerful Daimyo’s during the Edo Period. His descendants (his son and grandson’s mausoleums were being renovated) are also interred on the grounds. Negotiating the stairs up and especially down from the top of the hill was an achievement but one worth taking on. Next and last major stop was to the Aoba Castle ruins where Date and his family ruled the region from. You get a sense of how daunting a sight this place must have been when you stand on top of the former castle grounds overlooking the city. The grounds themselves at the top are not gigantic but that is not unusual with a mountain castle. I did look at going to the Osaki Hachimangu Shrine, but the idea of walking down 100 stairs with the ice that was around didn’t seem overly appealing (nor safe). I got off the bus in the city, had a walk around and shattered a myth as my train was 41 minutes late (something that doesn’t happen here). Tomorrow it’s back to Sendai but this time on to Ishinomaki, an area hard hit by the tsunami in 2013.
Sendai Morning Markets
Zuihoji Temple
Zuihōden Mausoleum
Miyagiken Gokoku Shrine & Sendai Castle Ruins
Around Sendai
Shattering a myth ... a late train in Japan
Day 20 - Ishinonaki
Today was one of those days where I honestly didn’t know what to expect but was glad that I took a punt. Ishinonaki was definitely a tale of two cities. One was based on a Manga orientated street view which gave off a comic strip feel. The other was the city which was one of the hardest hit settlements during the 2011 earthquake and resultant tsunami. To begin, the manga theme started when the train arrived into Sendai Station, adorned with animated characters all over the carriages. The moment you stepped out of the train (after 1hr25mins), you were greeted with a welcome party dressed in character related costumes. From here, the search for statues continued all the way to the Ishinomori Manga Museum. The museum is a homage to the artist Ishinomori Shotaro, creator of the influential Cyborg 009 and Kamen Rider manga. I love how the city has bought into this theme, providing a child-like atmosphere for all ages who visit. From here, I took a walk along the Kyukitakami River into a totally different experience. This area was one of the hardest places during the 2011 earthquake & tsunami. The barren park, once a thriving suburb of over 500 people, highlights the destruction left by the tsunami. I visited the museum and then eventually wandered over to the Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins (where all the students who were at school survived). A couple of things hit home to me while walking around the site. First was the sense of loss as you walked around the park, especially when confronted with the memorial to a young US teacher who was killed after ensuring that the children were safe. The second was the sense of hope even in the face of the destruction that was left behind. The sign featured in the park as well as the school illustrated this through the sentiment “Gambora! Ishinomaki” (or simply put, Ishinomaki, we can do it). It is really hard to adequately sum up how it felt to walk around this area. I do know that it was important to experience it.
Ishinomaki Manga Trail
Ishinomori Manga Museum
Ishinomaki Minamihama Tsunami Memorial Park
Miyagi Tsunami Memorial Museum
Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins
Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins
Train to Ishinomaki
Day 21 - Morioka to Tokyo
My last big chunk of travel for the trip. The reason I stayed in Morioka was to access areas around it, which I luckily I did. Now I am in Tokyo, it is all able dealing with the mayhem that one of the largest cities in the world can throw at you. After setting myself in the hotel, I jumped on a train and it was into the city. Ueno Park at dusk was my first stop. While I didn’t get much of a chance to really explore, I discovered a pop up festival and fed this growing obsession for manhole covers. From there it was on the Yamanote Line and off to the craziness which is Shinjuku at night. Being able to stretch my legs with a bit of a walk was good for the spirit (questionable for the feet though). Had a go at a baseball batting cage that we visited in 2018 (I’m getting better) and ambled through the Golden Gai area. It’s very reminiscent of a long gone Tokyo with all the tiny little bars that exist in this area. From here it was onto the obligatory visit to Godzilla, the 3D cat and walk through Piss Alley (aka Omoide Yokocho) before heading back to my digs. Bring on the last leg and final day tomorrow with the JR Pass.
Ueno Park
Golden Gai
Shinjuku
Piss Alley
Covers
Day 22 - Tokyo & Yokohama
Well that was one of those days that just happen and you don’t know what you are a part of. First of all, watching the National Foundation Day march at the torii gate leading into the Meiji Jingu Shrine was an eye opener. Basically, the day is about celebrating the first Emperor Jimmu ascension in 660 BCE. It also falls on the same date as the Meiji Constitution in 1889. While the day is supposedly about nationalism, not all Japanese celebrate it with the same fervour as the one’s I came across. The sights and sounds were really cool and the colour made it a spectacle that I was ultimately grateful to be a part of. From Harajuku, it was on to Yokohama which is a place that I have never visited. I basically wandered around to take in what it had to offer. The curse of the manhole cover struck and I found myself looking on the ground again, this time with a little bit of success. I dropped into Serigaya Park in Machida, where the creator of Pokemon was brought up. It has been said that he came up with the idea of the global phenomenon as a child, wandering around this space. The day was topped off with a visit to the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum. The top level was about information relating to ramen but it was the basement level that blew me away. The whole level (with 9 ramen eateries) had been transformed into a 1950’s Tokyo neighbourhood, resplendent with back alleys and movie posters. It’s an old hackneyed phrase bit it’s applicable here … only in Japan.
National Foundation Day
Shibuya
Yokohama
Yokohama Chinatown
Serigaya Park, Machida
Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum
Covers
Day 23 - Tokyo
Second last day and the old body is starting to wear out a little. Tokyo is such a huge city when compared to other places I have been to this trip, and my feet are testament to that. You really need a plan because you can do so much in a small area and so little in a bigger space. Today the train took me to Ueno Park first. I have always wanted to get a picture of Saigo Takemori, one of the three main men behind the Meiji Restoration. When I was here in 2019 with Tracy, I missed out and was determined to take it this time. That done, I’d forgotten what a joy it was to just wander through this park and take in the history and culture that was in front of me. Ueno Zoo was my next stop and I missed out by six months on getting the senior’s entry price (I’m not sure how to take that one). It is a strange environment. The best I can describe it was it was like visiting Taronga 40 years ago. I hate to make judgements on things I know little about but there it seemed to be a little antiquated. I did get to see a panda (which I think was asleep) so there is always an upside. Last stop was to the Tokyo National Museum. I decided wisely to miss the Miss Kitty exhibition and was really amazed with the collection that was on offer. Samurai armour through to artwork, poetry and ceramics, this place really gives you a sense of the history of Japanese culture. Artefacts dating back to 11,000 BCE really give you an appreciation of our place in the grand scheme of things. You could quite easily spend at least half a day in here, it’s definitely worth another visit next time. Last day tomorrow and then it is back to the family.
Ueno Park
Ueno Zoo
Tokyo National Museum
Wandering between Ueno & Akihabara
Day 22 - Tokyo
Last day of Tokyo sightseeing and the trick is where do I start? After arming myself with my all-day JR Tokyo pass, it was off to Minato City first of all. The Zōjō-Ji temple was the first stop. Just walking through the Black Gate gives you a sense of time as it was donated in the 1630’s by the second Tokugawa Shogun. This, like a lot of the major temples are quite amazing structures, especially how the city has seemingly grown up around them. This was emphasised by the sight of Tokyo Tower right behind the complex. It was a little like the old & new combined in one spectacular vision. I decided then to go for a wander and see the area such as Roppongi during day light hours. It is definitely a whole lot different than the night time but just as hilly. The museum didn’t open till later unfortunately so I kept going and eventually found myself in Akihabara. This place is an assault on your senses, even during daylight hours. Electric City as they call it really is the home of everything that is pop culture. Last stop was to Asakusa and specifically, the Senso-Ji temple. I needed to see it again before I left as it truly is an amazing structure. The crowds helped to bring the commercial aspect of Japanese culture (which is not a criticism, just an observation) to the forefront. Last minute shopping and my feet said I was done. It truly has been an amazing 24 days. I’ve witnessed the old and the new and am blessed to say that my fascination for this place just keeps on growing. The people are wonderful as is the food, but my family is where I need to be (for my own sake). Till we meet again.
Zojo-ji Temple
Senso-Ji Temple
Covers
Random shots during the day
