Germany Blog
Days 5-13 & 22-24
Note: All images that relate directly to this particular blog can be found via this link to the website page Germany Images
Day 5 - 1/1/23 - Cologne
So this is where it gets a little tricky but this is where there is a crossover of dates (if you have read my Belgium blog it ends with this date) The good thing is you don’t have to be a rocket scientist to work it out. Today I travelled into Germany and here we are, smack dab in the middle of Cologne. Staying at the Ibis at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) provides an air of familiarity as I stayed here back in 2018. While the room itself is pretty basic (yet comfortable), it is literally at the train station and the staff are very good. The reality is, all you want is a place to be comfortable and sleep.
The first port of call for my first day in Cologne was the Cathedral. I like millions before me have stood awestruck in front of this magnificent building. The sheer size and magnitude is impossible to do justice to in words or in a photograph. Needless to say (at the risk of using a hackneyed phrase), you have to see it to believe it. Trying to wrap your head around the fact that it took over 600 years to complete provides a slight insight into the detail in which this structure provides. The many statues that litter the entrances and artefacts inside provide a sense of the history and power of the church in Cologne. The one thing I have yet to do is to take the 500 step journey to the top, maybe that can wait or maybe that ship has sailed. I think for the time being, terra firma seems to be the most logical and safest choice.
From the Cathedral I had a wander down to the Altstadt and into the old section of the city. It was a little like retracing old steps but the beauty of this city is that you never really grow old of the sights on offer. I went to look at the old town hall but they were renovating the museum area that was attached to it. Missed out by a few months but it will be there for next time. I also took in the Xmas markets. The one thing that you miss in Sydney is the sense of a “cold “white” Christmas and while it wasn’t snowing, the ice skating and and various stalls gave the place a sense of tradition. This is one of the benefits of travelling to Europe in the middle of their winter. Yes it is colder and the days are shorter, but this is definitely one of the positives.
I did fail to mention something that I did early in the day but was quite a powerful moment. I had read about a statue to Edith Stein (if you want to read more) located not to far from the train station. The story relates to a woman who was born into the jewish faith, converted to Catholicism and was murdered in Auschwitz in 1942. If you want to know more, follow the link but the memorial is an incredibly beautiful tribute to a victim of the Nazi regime. While I was there, I got into a brief conversation with a young German who seemed to be very knowledgeable about the sculpture and Edith herself. There was also a man who seated himself behind the memorial and as I walked away, started blowing a horn, similar to something you would see (or hear) in a Viking film. Why he was doing it I’m really not sure but it seemed to be oddly appropriate.
Day 1 of Germany all wrapped up and quite happy to be back in the room. Tomorrow possibly a trip to Bonn but will see what the new day brings.
Day 6 - 2/1/23 - Cologne
Well, the weather and my inability to come to terms with the Deutsch Bahn’s automated ticketing machine put pay to my plans to go to Bonn. However, as the old saying goes, what you miss with one hand you pick up with the other. I basically hung around Cologne wandering around the streets which would normally send Tracy crazy. Not only is she getting the peace and quiet she so richly deserves, she is also not being subjected to my peculiar kind of travel torture.
The first mission for the day (after getting a coffee) was to go in search of Stolpersteine‘s. They are a type of holocaust memorial (aka “stumbling stones”) which are brass plates located outside of the residences of people who were taken by the Nazi’s during their reign of terror. I first became aware of them through teaching and on my last trip to Berlin, I went in search of them. I find them to be a very personal and effective means of remembrance and I thought while I am here, why not. I did a bit of research as to the addresses and then it it was off into the drizzling rain in search of the plaques. I couldn’t find a couple, one being Himmler’s deportation order of the Jewish citizens in Cologne which had been placed in front of the old town hall (closed due to renovations) and another outside of a school. The one’s I found all told a very personal story (albeit brief) and I am personally glad I took the time to look. When I get to Berlin, I will take the time to go in search of some more (among other things).
After a brief pitstop back in the room, it was off to Melaten-Friedhof, the main cemetery of Cologne which contains over 50,000 burial sites. There is something fascinating and strangely peaceful when you walk around these older cemetery’s (this one dates back to the 13 century). While it was cold and raining lightly, I am so glad I made the decision to come out here. Some of the sites dated back into the 1800’s and other were very recent. Walking around these places gives you a heightened sense of your own mortality, even though that may sound a little morbid. I blame my mother on this one as she passed on a fascination with old cemetery’s. Maybe I should start a new page on the website for this … just a thought :-). Anyways, off to Berlin tomorrow and 6 days of wandering.
Day 7 & 8 - 3/1/23 & 4/1/23 - Travel from Cologne (day 4) & Berlin
I decided to put these two days together for a couple of reasons because Day 7 was really a travel day. To make matters worse, the train was 53 minutes late. I know this because DB sent me four emails telling me the exact delays to the train … they had to get it right eventually ;-). Anyway, we finally got here from Cologne and settled into the Mercure near Checkpoint Charlie. My booking was based on the price but more importantly, the reviews. On both fronts I wasn’t let down. Had a quick walk around, got a few provisions and will eventually find a bowl (for cereal) that has evaded me over the past few days.
Day 8 and the weather to put it mildly was pretty foul. The forecast was for between 15-20 cm of rain but when you travel in the European winter, you have to cop that on the chin. The first thing to do (apart from stay as dry as I can) was sort out a sim card for the rest of my stay on the continent. So I hung a left into the teeth of the breeze and forged my way to the Mall of Berlin. The day manager gave me a store to go to there, unfortunately it didn’t open till 10am. Time for a coffee at Macca’s, get money for my train fare and sim and then back to to procure said item of technology. Well the train fare for a 7 day pass was 36 Euro, which in itself was quiet reasonable. Once i finally sorted out the sim, it was back to the room to install and dry out.
First stop today was to the Anhalter Bahnhof, or more appropriately, the remains of the Anhalter Bahnhof. During the war, this was one of the major deportation centres for those destined for the camps, both here in Germany and in Poland. What is left is the actual portico of the building but there is a enough pictures to gain an understanding of what it once looked like. Places like this were nearly demolished but due to the protestations of the people of Berlin, it still stands today. Remnants from the past, helping us to understand what happened so it wont happen again. From here it was onto the Topography of Terror which in my opinion, is the best museum dedicated to National Socialism in Berlin. It is basically about the SS & Gestapo and the site is located on the very ground that the SS, SD, Gestapo & Secret Police occupied during the years leading up and including the war. This is the third time I have been to the museum but it keeps bringing me back. The content is confronting which in reality, is the only way it can be shown. It definitely helps to visit museums like this as it makes you aware of the sources out there and provides a deeper understanding of why we teach it. If it isn’t relevant, then it has no place in schools but this keeps reinforcing why it is essential.
Last port of call for today was the obligatory Brandenburg Gate shot. To be truthful, there is something calming about seeing this structure. It is a little like being in London and going to Trafalgar Square. No matter how many times you see it, it just seems to be the right thing to do. There always seems to be some type of political activity happening and today was no different with an Iranian and Ukrainian protest in different areas of the Unter den Linden. I made the statement that it seems an appropriate area for activists given its history. Well the weather hasn’t got any drier and best to get myself back to the hotel. I got time and hopefully the weather on my side to do some exploring in the days to come. Now to get my feet dry and get warm.
Day 9 - 5/1/23 - Berlin
Well the sun is out … well the rain has abated anyway and it’s off to rip into Berlin. Will be covering a fair bit of territory today so best to get out there.
The first stop today was the East Side Gallery. The first time I visited this place was back in 2015 with Tracy but there was a bit of renovating going on. I also didn’t really appreciate what the place was about so it will be interesting to go back know that I know in part what I am looking at (and for). The biggest plus this time around was that there was no real work being down to any of the art works, so I got a good look at all the work (with the exception of three that had been removed). Well known pieces like “The Fraternal Kiss” and my favourite “Curriculum Vitae” this time didn’t have sections of fences in front of them which helped to appreciate the work even more. The whole 1.3 km of wall/artwork is an impressive piece of work, not only by the city but by all the individual artists. Having messages of peace and protestations against what the wall’s purpose was, is really a fitting “non-tribute” to the thing which divided a city for 27 years.
From here there was more ground to covered on my way to the Russian War Memorial at Treptower Park. I first saw an article about the memorial before my last trip here but for some reason, never got the chance to visit. Being a firm believer in the phrase, don’t let a chance pass you by a second time, it was on the S-Bahn and onto Treptower Park Station. Like all the other parks I have visited during the trip, the vegetation really matched the season which in turn, brought about a stark beauty. On reaching the gates to the memorial, it really did match what I expected and then some. There is no doubting the sacrifices the Soviet people made during WWII and in a way, the memorial is a fitting response to price paid by the Soviet military. The red granite structures in the central area with the hammer and sickle brought back memories of the Cold War. All in all, every aspect was extremely impressive but I couldn’t get out of mind, amid all the images of liberation, how this “freedom” was soon replaced by another oppressive regime. Funny how things work out I guess.
Last major stop of the day was out to the Olympic Stadium. I always wanted to see and to walk in the area that is steeped in so much history. The actual gates with the Olympic rings are there and after paying my 11 Euro’s, I got to walk through them and on to the stadium. The area itself is a mixture of the old and new but I like how they haven’t totally erased the past from the precinct. Statues and towers from the time are still very much present as is the Olympic cauldron, along with a listing of all the gold medal winners. Just to top the day off, the sun made an appearance as it was setting and placed a golden aura over the site. It’s funny how things turn out when you least expect it. I got back to the room and then decided to go for a little stroll and catch some of the early night sights. All in all it was a good day and it helped to reinforce why I really dig this city so much.
Day 10 - 6/1/23 - Berlin
After yesterday’s marathon effort (see how I snuck in the athletic reference there), I was a day closer to the hotel would be in order. I did notice on my way to the Olympic site yesterday, the Tempelhof airfield that ceased to be Berlin’s main airport back in the 1990’s.
If you go back to the airdrops of the late 1940’s by the US Air Force, you straight away think of Tempelhof. Dating back to the 1920’s, the visitors centre provided an extensive history of the site. There were definite reminders of the past such as the eagle’s head that is placed outside the main building of the former airport. Apparently, it sat on top of a much larger statue (given to the US Military where it sat at West Point until the late 1990’s) which was atop of the centre of the complex. I also loved the fact that the entire area was given back to the people and is being developed as an open green space. All too often these days, land that is located within a city’s confine is open to the whims of developers. People need to be considered amidst all the concrete laden plans of councils and town planners. Apart from the building, there were people walking their children, kite flying and people out for the morning jog. This, Treptower & the Tiergarten are examples where the people in charge of Berlin are getting it right.
From here it was off to Bayerischer Platz and to a unique memorial that I first learnt about at school. What they have done in this part of the city is used artwork attached to the light poles to illustrate the removal of civil rights to the Jewish people in Germany during the period between 1933 to 1945. While I didn’t get around to all 80 that are displayed in the area, I did come to appreciate the effectiveness of this different kind of memorial. I can see how it would act as a reminder to the people of what occurred during this period and how power with no restrictions can go horribly wrong. I tried to get around to as many as I could, but time is never going to be on your side. I can see how using the images will help make an effective exercise at school.
Staying true to what I hoped to do and stay closer to the hotel I went back for a quick bite to eat before setting off to the Unter den Linden and basically the area I visited last night. Getting a fresh look at the area and reacquainting myself with it in the daylight was too good an opportunity to pass up. The shots I got last night were amazing and I was lucky to get a few good ones today. The memorial to all the war dead was stunning with the central figure in the centre of the structure. Sometimes you don’t really need a lot to succeed in achieving an effective outcome. On a slightly different note, I think I am getting the hang of the selfie, not that I am entirely comfortable in taking them. It seems people like them so I’ll keep doing them at Tracy’s insistence 😉. It does add a personal touch to it but the world doesn’t need my head being shown off too often haha. Anyways, a good day had by moi and onto another.
Day 11 - 7/1/23 - Berlin
Well that was a day that went from one end of the spectrum to the other. To start my second last day in Berlin, I ventured out to Wannsee and finished the night in a cinema built in 1929 watching a film released in 1927.
The first thing that strikes you when you get off the train and see Wannsee Lake, is how idyllic a place it is. I suppose that’s why the SS purchased the house in 1940 as a retreat for visiting officers. Walking into the property which gave birth to the “Final Solution” was an experience unto itself. You are confronted with not only a seminal point in this country’s history, but also one that defines us as human beings and what we as a species are capable of when power is left unchecked. I haven’t got the ability with words to truly encapsulate how I felt, but I can liken it to walking into Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp back in 2015. It does show the importance of remembrance and maintaining these sites as a means by which to keep things in check. The museum itself is naturally dedicated to the Conference as well as the growth of the Nazi Party and their anti-Semitic platform. Another interesting theme that the site tackles is the issue of holocaust refusal through to the present day. Speaking to one of the museum staff, she was very big on highlighting this area. Sometimes travel throws up experiences which are confronting and far from comfortable but to my way of thinking, that’s what travel is all about. While it isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, it’s what I find fascinating about delving into foreign cultures.
From here it was back to town and quick break, then off down the Unter den Linden (could break into a Roger Milleresque tune here). The final activity was unique in itself. I noticed on the trains, advertising for the 1927 movie Metropolis which was made in Berlin by Fritz Lang. The fact that it had a live orchestra playing the original score had me hooked. Getting to watch a 1927 film made in Berlin, in a cinema which was built in 1929 … you don’t get much more Berlin than that. The U-Bahn was being fixed in places which made a quick trip much more of a hassle, so I stayed around Alexanderplatz area until the start of the film. Another Mexican meal (on top of the Curry wurst … this could come back to haunt) and then a bit of BB King in the foyer and life was pretty good. Walking around the neighbourhood uncovered its left-wing past and the close association with not only Rosa Luxemburg (central to the Sparticist uprising in 1919), but also to the Communist Party in Berlin. The film itself is a fascinating piece. When you put it into some historical context, the subject matter was extremely prophetic (as well as highly stylised in the acting styles of the time). A old friend made a comment which dealt with the serendipitous nature of the experience … he was 100% right. Bring on the German Expressionism I say.
Travel throws up some unique opportunities which are both enjoyable and on the other hand, extremely confronting. I suppose that’s what makes it so absolutely fascinating.
Day 12 - 8/1/23 - Berlin
Well, it was my last full day in Berlin. After last night and the lateness of the finish, I really was looking at a more relaxed day. There is so much to see and so little time to see it in but that is something I simply have to accept. What I you can’t fit it in, I can’t worry about.
The weather wasn’t overly inviting but as I said in an earlier post, it is wintertime, and you accept the conditions according to the choices that you make.
First stop today was out to Mauer Park and the flea markets that are opened each weekend. I had been here before on my last trip and through the urgings of a few friends, I thought why not again. The site itself is a mixture of the old, new, unusual, and unique. I was told there was told there was karaoke where a hell of a lot strung out Berliners congregate, but the rain put a stop to that. I can see how in good weather, the place would attract hundreds of people through here. I had a walk around and did eye a few things but, in the end, walked out empty handed. It really wasn’t a big deal as I would have had to carry the stuff around anyway so I will take the freedom of movement as a plus.
From the park it was onto the Berlin Wall Memorial. Created in 1998, fit revolves around probably the most iconic structure of the Cold War period. Walking along the open stretches of public space and thinking that this was formerly a stretch of ground that was guarded by armed soldiers was quite mind boggling. There is a 60m area that has been preserved in a similar manner as it was pre-1989 which I viewed in the tower next to the museum. Taking a moment to think at times of what has happened in your lifetime, helps to truly appreciate what we have been through (be it second-hand). The wall of remembrance (there is a video in the memorial section of the website) and Chapel of Reconciliation were some of the features in the area that reinforces how much the city has changed in such a short period of time.
The weather was not getting any better, so it was back to the hotel after a brief walk around the Friedrichstrasse. After the few days I have had here, a nice relaxed finish seemed to be in order. it’s off to Frankfurt for a very brief stay before heading back to London. I truly love visiting this place as there is something unique about it. I have always said that there was a different drum beat happening here and I’ll undoubtably be back again if humanly possible. What was my highlight? Difficult to say … Treptower Park was different as was the Olympic Stadium. Getting to watch Metropolis with a live orchestra was an opportunity that I am not likely to get again. Wannsee was for totally different reasons. When teaching about Nazi Germany, it certainly is an advantage to have visited these places as it helps to gain a better appreciation of what you are talking about. Until next time …
Day 13 - 9/1/23 - Travel Berlin to Frankfurt
Really not to say about today. I did the train trip of approx. 5 hours from Berlin through to Frankfurt airport today. The one great thing about the trains in Europe (as was the case in Japan), is that they give you time to relax. I would also suggest that travelling in the first class area of trains (in most cases, a very doable and affordable option) is a great option. Just that little bit more space, especially when you are tall, is a very welcome addition.
I learnt a very valuable lesson on arrival at Frankfurt Flughafen (airport), don’t walk from Terminal One to the accomodation sector. Not only was it cold, the footpaths where not overly smooth which meant basically dragging a nearly 20 kg suitcase 1.5 km. As the old saying goes, you live and learn. Off to London tomorrow so will have more to say then. 7am flight so have to get ready early and get my self sorted. Last thing I need is to sleep in … it would be a first haha.
Day 22 - 18/1/23 - Travel Amiens to Frankfurt
Today started off without a hitch. I was up early, once again beating the alarm clock. I made my rolls for the roughly 6-hour train journey to Paris then Frankfurt and I can honestly say, I have outdone myself this time. I have broken up a baguette in three pieces, added the chicken slices, camembert (well I am in France), and added the wholegrain mustard for a bit of taste. Add to that a couple of bananas and oranges and I am on fire. The first section of the trip to the Gare du Nord went without a hitch. From the Gare L’est in Paris to Mannheim was also fine but from this point, the dreaded German rail curse struck. The train broke down and we were told to get off and wait for another service. While I was waiting, oblivious to what was going on, messages translated into English regarding locations for smoking was provided to all and sundry. It’s a shame that the 6-7 announcements relating to the train to Frankfurt was only delivered in German. Added to this, two young DB staff who seemed to be more interested in their own conversation, were of little help. Eventually I found someone that could help me, and it was off to Frankfurt. Usually, German rail is such a reliable operator so like anything, you take the good with the bad and you roll with it.
I finally made it to the Star Apart Hotel, my residence for the final couple of days and it was quirky. Each room has a sporting theme to it based a prominent sportsperson and they throw in a complimentary minibar. I got the Michael Schumacher room so once I got myself sorted, back on the road to shake off the inevitable tiredness that would kick in if I laid down. The city itself is stunning and with the sun setting, it put on a spectacular, albeit cold face. It truly is a mixture of the old and the new with history contrasted against 20th and 21st century glass and steel. The devastation to the city and its people that the bombing raids of WWII and the subsequent rebuild gave it a relatively new feel. The vast majority of the Altstadt had to be pieced back together but the history that is attached to this city has not been lost. The Römerberg and Cathedral for example provided a backdrop to images I was lucky enough to get on camera (or iPhone to be exact). A day plagued by delays and frustration ended in a special manner which makes travel so riveting if you can just get past the little blips that you experience on the way.
Day 23 - 19/1/23 - Frankfurt/Aachen
Today was the day I finally get to Aachen. It’s been a place that I have wanted and planned to visit for roughly three trips now except this time, I will finally get there. Originally, I was going to have a look around earlier in the trip but the thought of crowds, etc made me think that now would be the better time. Add into the mix the forecast of snow and the recipe for a unique experience was already there.
Well first of all, the DB curse was alive and well today. This morning, the train between Cologne & Aachen delayed for just on an hour. Apparently, there was an incident at a crossing which I suppose can happen at any time, it just seems to be happening with alarming regularity. On the trip back to Frankfurt, the train between the airport and Frankfurt Sud was cancelled. Hopefully this is a sign that I am getting all my bad train luck out of the way in one trip.
The trip itself to Aachen was interesting. What I have seen in Frankfurt is a city that has to reconstruct as a result of the war. What I saw in Aachen was a town that was able to retain a lot of its historical buildings and structures despite of the war. Evidence of human habitation in the town dates back over 4,500 years through to the Bronze Age. The first structure that I viewed was one of the two town gates that was constructed in the 13th Century. To say they built things to last in this place is an understatement.
The one building that I most wanted to see was the Cathedral. Originally built back in 800 CE, the Carolingian design housed the remains of Charlemagne, and the rest of the Cathedral was built around it. The octagon which was the original part of the building is a sight unto itself. I have visited Cathedrals and churches this trip in places like Cologne, Amiens, and Frankfurt but this was different to all the rest. Not only did it predate the rest, the colours and design stood it apart from the others. You can’t help but think of the thousands of people who have walked on the same foundations over the years when you visit these places.
From here it was a walk around the city to the numerous historical buildings that littered Aachen. The town hall was an impressive structure with a fountain featuring Charlemagne in the centre of the square. The aroma of a small food market, brought back memories of wandering through Christmas markets in previous trips.
The one thing that strikes you when you walk through this place is a sense of it being “up market” (for the want of a better term). The shops look expensive, and the city is set out with space. Another feature is the numerous sculptures that are placed throughout the city. My favourite is the Bachwulf, a mythical monster who lays in wait to attack those who are intoxicated. Apparently, the original sculpture was melted down in WWII and used for war materials and a replacement put back in its place in 1969. Whatever it is, it’s perfectly placed outside a pub, waiting for prospective victims. Over the years, the German and Scandinavian peoples have provided us with wonderful folktales to make sense of their world. I suppose we do the same in the present day to an extent, you just have to look carefully as to what message is being sent.
It was a hell of way to spend my last full day of the trip and my legs are starting to feel it. Me thinks tomorrow, I might use the 11am check out before preparing for my trip back to Oz. I definitely have clocked up the kilometres this trip and I’ll be interested to check the Fitbit to get an idea of just how many I have walked.
Day 24 - 20/1/23 - Frankfurt then flight home
Well, this is it. The final day has arrived, and the long trip back will begin tonight. To say I miss my family is an understatement. To say I will be glad to see them again is an even bigger understatement. The opportunity to have a look around this city after first working out a way to store my bags was the first job. Once that was done, the Willy Brandt Plaza was the first stop for the day. I had walked past it on my way in but seeing that it was on the way to train station, it seemed as good a place to start.
The Jewish Museum was the first stop of the day, and I honestly didn’t know what to expect. It tended to concentrate on the Jewish existence in Frankfurt from the 18th century to the present day which was appropriate. While it wasn’t as extensive the Jewish Museum in Berlin, it provided an interesting insight into the experience of a faith community that has gone through so much turmoil. The National Socialist aspect of that past was featured but wasn’t the most dominant focus of the exhibit. The museum itself was on the site of the former home of the Rothschild’s so one floor was partially taken up with their background. On the same floor, was content collected from the family of Anne Frank which had been relocated. To see her childhood chair is a tangible link to one of the millions persecuted during the reign of the Nazi regime throughout Germany & Europe.
Straight after the Jewish Museum, it was off to the last major stop of the trip, the German Film Museum. I honestly didn’t know what to expect here but I had read favourable reviews and I can honestly say I was pleasantly surprised. The first floor was all about the evolution of film and had a lot of hands on examples of models from the 19th and early 20th century. Along with this, was old camera and projectors. One exhibit which I ended up spending a bit of time in was a collection of old film footage from the very early 20th century. It ranged from vaudeville through to social history from Frankfurt and other areas of Germany. It is always fascinating to not only see the way in which people dressed but also, the way in which they related to this new technology. I suppose people in 100 years will probably be saying the same thing about the emergence of the selfie. From here it was up to the 2nd floor with a range of film paraphernalia including a tin drum, an Oscar, Darth Vadar’s mask and a multi-screen thematic film presentation which was absolutely fascinating. All in all, this was a really interesting space and a museum that had a mixture of a history of not only film, but of Germany as well.
From here it was one last trip around the old market area in an effort to kill a little time before heading off to the airport. Getting one last look at the older section of town really reinforces how much rebuilding occurred not only here, but throughout Germany after WWII. To think this place was decimated only 70 odd years ago and it has recovered to what it is today is truly impressive. Throw in the partitioning off the country and what you have is a country that is the epitome of survival. There was one thing in particular that I was after in the market square and that was the memorial plaque where the book burning took place in 1933. When you travel alone, you can go in search of these type of things without fear of being hit by your travel partner. Once found, I started slowly wending my way back to my bags and then onto the airport. To stay consistent, I had one last hiccup with German rail (which as I stated earlier, is normal so reliable) before making to the airport and then the long trek home.
I didn’t know what to expect from Frankfurt and while I have really only scratched the surface, I can honestly say it has been a really positive stay. The trip itself has been terrific. 378,000 odd paces and four countries covered in 24 days. It’s nice to get back on the horse so to speak and hopefully, the start of a few adventures down the track.
