2024 Europe Blog & Images
Italy
Day 1 - The flight and Rome
Well 30 odd hours of travel is never that much fun in anyone’s language. The first leg to Dubai reminded me why I travel via Japan these days. Having said that, the food and movie options on Emirates were excellent. Without the extra legroom seats it may have been a slightly different experience but was lucky that on both legs, I got people next to me that were nice. I finally got to see the Zone of Interest, revisited Field of Dreams and watched The Boys in the Boat directed by George Clooney. There are so many films to choose from so the trip home has plenty of options.
When we finally made it to Rome, it was a blessing to see sun again. The weather forecast seems to be great for the majority of the trip (fingers crossed) so here’s hoping it stays like this. The Fraterna Domus was our hotel for the next 4 nights, while a little old is really quite nice and centrally located. From here it was off to the Old Bear for dinner (with the largest entree I have every seen), The Piazza Navona and a few pics from the Ponte Umberto I. The view of St Peter’s Basilica and the Tiber at night was one of those moments that makes travel so worthwhile. Anyway, roll on tomorrow and here’s hoping for an interesting experience.
The flight
Rome arrival
Day 2 - Rome
Today was the day the tour started in earnest. It doesn’t take make much to get over the exhaustion of travel when the prospect of discovery rears its head. The first stop today was to the Colosseum. I can remember the first time that I saw it back in 2015, and the best way to describe it was wow. While it may not have reached the same heights the second time around, it is still one of those amazing sights that travel affords a person. To stand in the same spot, looking the same structure that a Roman citizen would have looked at over 2,000 years ago is what history is all about. Having a guide this time made the experience just that little bit better.
From the Colosseum, it was off to the Palatine Hill and forum. To walk around the grounds of emperors and view the beginnings of the Roman civilisation was again, something that transcends words. Trying to get your head around what you are viewing is difficult as it comes at you at a million miles per hour. Walking through the ruins of the forum just doubles that sensation and you truly are enveloped by the whole experience.
From here it was onto the Jewish Quarter for lunch. While it still embraces the old, you are dragged kicking and screaming into the 20th century. The area witnessed a purge of the Jewish citizens in 1943, the vast majority losing their life at Auschwitz. Stolpersteine’s are littered throughout the district and serve as a constant reminder of antisemitism at its worst. The lunch of hummus and falafel was perfect for a day of 29C and the rest was appreciated. It really is a very pretty area is definitely a place to just sit back and enjoy.
Piazza Navona
The Colosseum
Palintine Hill & Forum
Jewish Quarter
Capitoline museum
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Day 3 - Rome
The morning started with a visit to the Vatican Museum. The last time we were here was back in 2015 and the first thing you notice was the crowds that greeted us so early in the morning. This time around, we had a fabulous guide named Joy. When you do self-guided tours, you get the opportunity to avoid crowded areas, but you do miss out on the nuances of a site. I suppose that is the trade off when travelling, you can’t have everything perfect, all you can do is your best. The art, antiquities and general architecture of the museum is worth the little bit of hustle & bustle and the Sistine Chapel is the topper. To think that Michealangelo could paint the ceiling in the detail that he did is astounding. Walking through the tapestry and map area certainly did reinforce the wisdom of travelling during winter. If I could experience half of the crowd, then life would have been easier.
St Peter’s was another thing entirely. This was the first time I had visited the Basilica, so it was a bucket list item ticked off. Myself & Trace didn’t line up in 2015 and if it wasn’t for the group express entrance, I don’t think I would have lined up again. Someone said people were queued for around 2 hours which would have been about 90 mins too long for me. Anyway, once inside the spectacle was worth the albeit short wait. It was a shame the Altar of St Sebastian was being renovated for next year’s jubilee, it was a little like the Colosseum last time we were here. The most important thing is the maintaining of Basilica for future generations. The entire site is quite stunning, both the Basilica and Square and the sense of history that accompanies the area is palpable. It is one of the reasons that this city is so unforgettable, and unique.
Vatican Museum
St Peter's Square & Basilica
Day 4 - Rome
The last full day Rome arrived, and it certainly was a full one. The first stop was at the catacombs, and it was a truly amazing. Having visited the catacombs in Paris, this was a totally different experience. The level of faith shown by the early Christians led to this being a totally fascinating tour. The image of the Madonna and child made you realise that you were witnessing history not unlike other, more storied sites in Rome. From here it was onto the Maxii Contemporary Art Gallery to get the creative juices flowing. This was another interesting sojourn into areas that at times, I didn’t quite understand. I did like the video room area and some of the art installations. Overall, I am glad I had the opportunity to visit here as it nice to take a step outside the norm and visit places that are out of my normal environment.
The last two stops were slightly different. The Piazza del Popolo allowed for a little bit of free time and shopping. I even ventured into The Gap to buy a pair of cargo style pants. The Piazza and surrounding streets scream Rome and money as the shops were not overly cheap. Wandering through the choked avenues here is an experience to say the least. Antiquities mixed in with modern day consumerism brings home the unique character that is modern day Italy. The Pantheon was the last stop, and we were lucky to get in Leith did a great job and I for one was grateful that she was able to weave her magic. Tracy and I visited here in 2015, and it truly is awe-inspiring building. The history that is attached to this place alone is worth the visit along with the architecture, both inside and out. You can’t help but walk around inside the building and try and take in what it has to offer. All in all, and amazing day to cap off an amazing start to this journey.
Catacombs & Maxii Art Gallery
Piazza Del Popolo
Pantheon
Day 5 - Naples & Sorrento
The first movement of the trip and it was a off to Napoli via bus. After the all of the walking and visiting different sites, it was kind of nice to have a change of pace. Travelling in a group is so much more different than travelling solo. Having to be in a specific spot at a specific time can be tiring in itself. The change in scenery was highlighted in full when one of the first sights of Napoli, was watching a person getting pick pocketed outside of the main train station. In a way it was good for the kids to see this as it served as a warning of what can happen if you aren’t careful.
The first stop was to the Archaeological Museum or as it is known in Napoli, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. Its collection includes works from Greek, Roman and Renaissance times, and especially Roman artefacts from nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum. Seeing the mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures in such incredible detail brought these ancient cities to life. The “Alexander Mosaic,” depicting Alexander the Great’s battle against Darius, was one of the standout pieces displayed in the museum . The museum’s “Secret Cabinet,” was certainly an eye-opener both in content and the sheer fact that it still has an age restriction to it. Before leaving, we admired the Farnese Collection, featuring colossal sculptures like the Farnese Bull and the Farnese Hercules. If you have never visited this site, it certainly worth the hike, especially if you are visiting Pompeii.
After immersing ourselves in history, we hopped back on the coach and headed to Sorrento. The ride itself was spectacular, offering glimpses of the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. The highlight of the day was the breathtaking view from Villa Comunale Park, watching the sun set below an exquisite horizon. This is a special place, made all the more special by the weather.
Naples Archaeological Museum
Sorrento
Day 6 - Pompeii & Herculaneum
The day began with one of the most picturesque drives one could hope to experience. While I had seen it yesterday on the way into Sorrento, I had the window seat this time around. The one word that springs to mind is amazing. While it doesn’t adequately encompass the experience in full, it’s the best that my vocabulary can muster at the moment.
We eventually made it to Pompeii, our first ancient site for the day. Entering through the Porta Marina gate, you’re instantly transported back to the 1st century. We sat down in the amphitheatre and had an amazing view of Vesuvius. It’s close proximity really struck home how helpless the residents would have been when it erupted. Walking along the cobblestone streets, grooves from ancient cart wheels were still visible, which highlighted the trade that once flourished here. The Forum, the Temple of Apollo and the Basilica hinted at the city’s political and religious importance. As we wandered through the colosseum, it wasn’t hard to imagine the roar of crowds enjoying gladiatorial games. The real magic lay in the details: the frescoes, mosaics, and the haunting plaster casts of victims. I am so glad I finally got to visit the site. From the graffiti that can be still seen on the walls right through to the colossus statue which overlooked the port prior to the eruption, every minute spent & metre walked was thoroughly worth it.
After lunch, it was off to Herculaneum, a more intimate and arguably better preserved site. Smaller and wealthier than Pompeii, it offers a different perspective on Roman life. While Pompeii was buried in volcanic ash, Herculaneum was engulfed by mud, which protected its wooden beams, furniture, and even food remnants. The highlights here were the villas, such as the House of the Deer, with its marble statues, and the House of the Mosaic Atrium. The ancient bathhouses were stunning, with their intact ceilings and colourful frescoes. The site’s proximity to the modern town also made it feel more alive, as though history were reaching out to touch the present. One of the most poignant moments was standing by the ancient boathouses, where the skeletons of those who sought refuge were unearthed.
Heading back to Sorrento and the relative peace was a nice way to finish such a memorable day. I think visiting both sites on seperate days would be perfect as it certainly takes it out you but on a trip like this, you don’t have that luxury. Off to Germany tomorrow for the next leg of the adventure. Ciao
Pompeii
Herculaneum
Sorrento
Germany
Day 7 - Travel to Munich
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Flight from Naples & Munich
Day 8 - Dachau & Nuremberg
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Dachau
Nuremberg
Day 9 - Nuremberg
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France
Day 10 - Flight & Fromelles
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Day 11 - Western Front & Paris
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Amiens
Western Front
Paris
Day 12 - Paris
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The Louvre
The Tuileries & The 8th arrondissement
Day 13 - Paris
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