France Blog
Days 17-21
Note: All images that relate directly to this particular blog can be found via this link to the website page France Images
Day 17 - 13/1/23 - London to Annoeullin (Travel)
The day started off early for the trip on the Eurostar. Moving away from the relative comfort of a language that I knew to once again a country whose language I am unsure of, while it doesn’t bother me, definitely keeps you on your toes. The added bonus of where I am travelling to is the fact that I will be seeing very good friends who I first met through travel. As the train arrived in Lille, one of the first sights I am confronted with was a Westfield’s. It was like I being transport back to a normal Thursday night shopping with Tracy, the only difference is that they don’t serve Poulet in Hurstville or Miranda. Finally reaching the Lille Flanders station, I then spent the best part of 10 minutes trying to work out how to purchase a ticket to Don Sainghin. Eventually succeeding in this seemingly easy task (well easy if you could speak French), it was onto my final destination to meet up with good friends who run a guest house in Annoeullin.
I first met Chantel and Philippe back in 2013 when myself, Tracy and Lauren visited Paris. I caught a train up here as a result of the school research we do on the Diggers of Fromelles. From that meeting, we have all become very good friends as well as all the other members of the family and numerous others I have been lucky to have met along the way. I have said it earlier, you can be very lucky in life and things definitely happen for a reason. Over the years I have seen the family grow and I was met with the newest addition to the family, April. As much as I love my children this child was perfect. After finally getting my bags and everything up the stairs of death (haha very very steep but I have yet to come a cropper), it was a relaxing meal with a few aperitifs. Something happens here with regards to alcohol haha I have avoided drinking all year and it’s straight into the 7% stuff … oh well, when in Rome.
Day 18 - 14/1/23 - Annoeullin
First all, I got the longest sleep of my trip so far. Maybe it was a mix of the drinks and mattress but also very much a feeling of being so warmly welcomed. After breakfast, I decided to walk the 2.5km out of town to the neighbouring town of Don-Sainghin (from which i arrived by train) as I noticed the distinctive George Cross as we were coming in from the train station yesterday. The one thing you notice in this neck of the woods is the amount of scattered cemeteries all around the countryside due to the ravages of largely WWI & also WWII. The Don Communal Cemetery is the final resting place of 132 casualties, mainly from the Great War. The town where I am staying, Annoeullin was held by the Germans from early in the War until shortly before the end in November, 1918. Two British hospitals were established in Don and those who are interned in the town’s cemetery came from these places. Every time I walk around these places, it just keeps reminding me of the sacrifice that these men & women made and the fact it is so important to never forget. A unique sight which I had never seen before was the tombstones of two members of the Chinese Labour corps (definitely something which has piqued my interest). The weather was again not so nice but it held off basically until I got within 100 metres of the house.
After lunch, Chantel and myself made the trek to Lens to the Louvre-Lens Museum. They had an exhibition on Champollion: The Path of Hieroglyphics which dealt primarily about the path of deciphering the Rosetta Stone and all of the politics, etc that surrounded the discovery. The best part of travelling at this time of year is the lack of numbers when compared to peak season. While the wet weather drove a few people inside, the exhibition space itself was quite comfortable. This part of the visit was quiet interesting as it provided some information regarding the politics that I was not aware of. From the exhibition, it was onto another room which documented over 5,000 of human existence with artefacts dating through to the present day. The temptation was to photograph everything (which would have been easy to do) but to see is to truly experience. I did take quite a few pics but time is never going to be on your side in museums such as this, as they are so extensive.
After leaving here, it was back to the house and dinner party with more friends which would eventually finish at 2.30am. The raclette was brought out as was wine after wine. Travel is wonderful and meeting up with friends after the restrictions of covid is what living is all about.
Day 18 - 15/1/23 - Annoeullin
When travelling, a person will naturally look towards the big cities due to their familiarity (if that is their thing). Don’t get me wrong, to visit a Paris or London or New York is an absolute buzz. The first time you set eyes on an iconic structure such as the Eiffel Tower, you really do experience a ‘wow’ moment. If you want a reflection of the people of a country, visiting a smaller township is a good place to start. Annoeullin is one such place where the history of the town provides a fascinating insight to the people of the region.
The town apparently was originally divided into a ‘rich’ and ‘poor’ area. You can see a reflection of the division within the town in the architecture of the older structures. These are few on the ground as the town itself was behind German lines during WWI and a lot of the houses were destroyed. The cemetery displays this German occupation in the shape of over 800 grave sites. Commemoration is such an important feature of the region and this site reinforces this importance. While I have visited the location before, being here alone provides a chance to reflect on the waste that is war. The main section of the cemetery contains four Commonwealth grave sites as well providing the final resting place for Albert Ball, VC, DSO & Two Bars. He can be found in the German section which is another reason why this place is fascinating. The respect shown to enemies is in stark contrast to the nature of the treaties that followed the end of the conflict.
From here it was onto see Alexandra, David & April for afternoon drinks and catch-up. So much has happened since I last caught up with them … Covid, marriage and childbirth for starters. I remember one time promising Alexandra that next time I was in France she would get me up on a horse. Well thankfully that opportunity didn’t arise as once again, I dodged it. Among all the rush and bustle that is my idea of a holiday, I equally cherish these more peaceful family get togethers. The peace and quiet, mixed in with my terrible french and David’s equally terrible english makes it such an enjoyable experience. I am blessed to know such generous people and call them friends.
The last stop of the day was the Phalempin Communal Cemetery. While Philippe had gone back to the house, this was his hometown and the place where his family was buried. This town was known in the region was a rather affluent place, which was borne out in the houses that were in evidence in our drive after the visit. Like a lot of cemeteries in the area, there was a small Commonwealth Graves Commission site inside the cemetery. While the 44 plots can’t compare in size to places like Tyne Cot & Villers-Bretonneux, it is no less important than the aforementioned sites. Walking around these places is a sobering experience which taps into the most elusive element of historical study, empathy. From here, it was back home for dinner and preparation for my next destination tomorrow.
Day 20 - 16/1/23 - Annoeullin to Amiens (Travel)
This morning was time to say goodbye once again to two very good friends. From the first visit back in 2013, I have always felt welcome and when I am so far away from home, it is like an extended family. The next part of the trip started back at Don Sainghin station for the short trip to Lille. From there it was on to Amiens for a few days and expected colder conditions. I have been lucky to experience quite mild conditions so far (the feels like bit on my Accuweather might want to counter that statement at times) but I am ready for whatever is thrown at me (maybe with the exception of a blizzard).
The one thing that is dependable (most of the time) in Europe is the train service. It’s the fastest and best way to navigate your way across the continent. The trip from Lille to Amiens was peaceful and without incident. It gave me the chance to take my time and breathe a little before the last leg of the trip. On reaching my accomodation (which was across the road from the station), I was met with this really spacious layout. The stairs might have been a bit tricky and the stair case a little steep but once settled, it was really comfortable. The fact that it provided me with a kitchen allowed me to stock up on a few essentials. The hotels I have been at have been good but having a fridge and microwave, allows for that extra little bit of freedom.
Once the bag was stowed and the necessary orientation had taken place, it was back on the road for a bit investigation. This time it was off to Cimetière ancien de Saint-Acheul located a couple of kilometres away. As I have said earlier, there is something fascinating about older cemetery’s and probably the most fascinating are the one’s in France. The sculptures that you find in some of these sites are pretty amazing (Père Lachaise in Paris readily springs to mind). Another reason I wanted to visit was the existence of a French war cemetery that was located there. When I was taken to Notre Dame de Lorette, the sight of 44,863 crosses was overwhelming. It was a opportunity to experience a different style of commemoration and one I knew that if I missed the chance today, it might not be there tomorrow. The site contains the graves of 2739 soldiers, including 12 Brits, 10 Belgians, one Russian and a muslim section made up of soldiers from North Africa. The colours, symbols and just the view of so much waste is for me, such a valuable learning experience which can only help me not only as a teacher, but as a human being. The walk back via a small supermarket for much needed supplies, finished off a day of movement that would be the beginning of the end of one hell of a trip.
Day 21 - 17/1/23 - Amiens (Villers-Bretonneux)
Well, this one turned into the biggest day I have had so far. I wasn’t quite sure what I was going to do until effectively the last minute. I was either going to be in Alberts or in Villers-Bretonneux for the day , eventually deciding on the latter.
The first part of the day was a general wander around Amiens until my train for Villers-Bretonneux which was a tick after noon. From where I am located, I headed in the direction of Jules Verne’s home which was a relatively easy walk. The area around his home was quite pretty with a park, a few sculptures, and a groovy piece of artwork of Jules as Superman. The house with the dome at the top stood out and with the smoke flowing from the chimney, it blended in with the slightly less than tropical temperature.
The one structure that stands out in Amiens no matter where you are is the Cathedral, so the compass naturally pointed in that direction. On the way, the city revealed a very pretty side to it which can be easily missed. The town centre with the memorial to General Joffre and later, the St Leu basin provide a real picturesque quality. The Cathedral however is a standout. Someone asked to compare the cathedrals in Cologne to Amiens which is not something that is easy to do. For sheer size then I would have to side with Cologne. For beauty, I would have to select Amiens. For sheer “wow factor”, I think I will call it a tie as they are both magnificent buildings. There is something about a Gothic cathedral that elicits an aura that is unmatched by any other structure. The plaques to the Australian, New Zealand & Canadian soldiers from WWI acted as a constant reminder of the role played by these countries (and others) in the region.
From here it was the train to Villers-Bretonneux. I had been to the Australian Memorial back in 2017 with a school trip but this was the first time I had visited the village itself. Like most other days, walking was the chosen means of transport with the Memorial first cab of the rank. For most Australians with some understanding of its history, this place is special. The town hall with the kangaroo emblems emblazoned next to the door and even the kebab shop, highlighted the Australian presence here. The 2 km walk to the memorial itself provided a rare moment of reflection as well as the chance to take in the area which just over a hundred years ago, was the scenes of such wanton devastation. The epitaph on the tombstone of Private W. Rae best summed up the futility of war “Another life lost, hearts broken for what”. To find out later he was from a family who sent three sons to war, only to lose two (another brother died of the Spanish flu ) heightened the sense of loss. In a way, I was blessed to be the only one in the memorial as it gave me an opportunity to soak in the atmosphere of the area. The Sir John Monash Centre was a new addition to the last time I was here and I can honestly say it was stunning. The interactive nature of the museum made it so relevant and made the experience even more real. I would recommend this place to anyone and it definitely highlighted the positives of travelling in non-peak season.
After walking back to town from the memorial, I wandered out to the Adelaide Cemetery where the unknown soldier who now rests in Canberra was exhumed. When you just see the hundreds of tombstones (or in the case of French or German cemeteries crosses) you tend to become oblivious to the human cost of war. Taking the time to read the names of the victims and see how old they were, really makes a difference and heightens the tragedy of war. Too many people with their future ahead of them were lost and the sadness is compounded by the ones that were left behind. I also caught a glimpse of the sign “Do Not Forget Australia” in the École Victoria school ground, will have to look at that a little closer next time. 25,500 odd paces later.
