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Day 1 – 28/12/22
Touch down in London and to put it nicely, the weather wasn’t overly inviting. When you travel to the northern hemisphere you accept that so who cares about a little cold. The trusty ol’ Sharks jacket will look after me once again (and possibly for the last time). Arrived at the Premier Inn in Paddington Basin after my journey and little less frazzled than usual and after a quick unpack and shower, it was off to acclimatise myself. Sorted out an Oyster Card and it was off on the District Line (or was that the Circle Line?????) into the centre of town. Knowing that I had only a few hours before the body gave up on me, I headed to the Xmas lights of Oxford St.
The one thing you experience in big cities is the buzz that is created by everything going on around you. It was all there, the noise, the red buses, tourists and definitely the lights. I know I will be back later in the trip, but the Xmas lights won’t be so the next two days are my chance to experience the post-Christmas feel of London. I got down to Marble Arch and a skinny Flat White and it was around then I knew it was time to head back to the room. How successful sleep would be was anyone’s guess but a bed was calling and the voice was growing louder. Tomorrow I need to change over some currency so a new part to explore and whatever else comes my way.Missing Trace but I’m sure she will enjoy the peace and quiet.
Day 2 – 29/12/22 – London
There is something about travel that excites the senses. It may be that it’s about revisiting sites so as to gain a new perspective on what you have already seen. It may be experiencing things for the first time and enjoying the process of learning. It may also be the hustle & bustle, the noise, smells, culture and the people from different walks of life. Whatever it is, I find it absolutely fascinating and have missed it.
The day started off with my first English vegetarian breakfast … well baked beans in ham sauce may not be 100% there but I’m sticking to what the menu said haha. From here I decided to retrace my steps from 2013 through Hyde Park sans Tracy & Lauren. There is something oddly attractive about a large inner city park in winter. Regents Park, The Luxembourg Gardens and my previous walk through here, while all different, all had the same eerie sense to them. It maybe the starkness of the leafless trees or the cold but there so much enjoyment to be gained out of the experience. Green space in the midst of all the concrete brings an order and peace to the somewhat chaotic lives we live and it was so evident today. Peter Pan’s statue, the Serpentine, Princess Diana’s fountain (unfortunately no water) and the Albert Memorial were all stops along the way and I was so glad I spent time in this oasis.
Next on the list was a quick walk through Knightsbridge and it was off to the Bank of England where some old bank notes needed to be exchanged. What seemed like a simple chore was made all the more difficult when on arrival, I was greeted with a line over 70 metres long. Of that 70 metres, only 40 metres were going to be served such was the efficiency of the process. The actually area itself with the London Exchange among the financial institutions close by, was impressive but unfortunately, it was back to Paddington and my digs for identification (which I forgot). From there I had to travel back to a post office in Regent St to change over the old currency. Once that it was done I wandered around the West End of London aimlessly, surviving the crowds. Places like Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus & Admiralty Arch while being “classic tourist” locations, never really get old. The time of day, weather and people will always present these places in a different light so once is ever enough in these areas.
After surviving the Oxford St Xmas lights experience (and the selfie taking crowds) it was back to the hotel to recalibrate. I had a lay down and ended up crashing for a few hours. The one thing I am hoping for is that my sleep patterns start to get back in check as this is a little haywire at the moment.
But as I stated earlier, there is something about travel that invigorates the senses. Yes it is crowded at times, noisy, commercial and a whole range of other experiences that is set to try your patience, but I wouldn’t change it for the world. I love it and will have plenty of time to rest later on.
Day 3 – 30/12/22 – Heybridge
Day 3 was a lot more low key than the opening couple of days. Today was all about catching up with Tracy’s family (well I suppose after 35 years, my family as well) for the first time since 2015. The weather today wasn’t great but I would spend a portion of it travelling so it really wasn’t an issue.
The first order of the day was find some breakfast. I went in search of something to eat and after finding a cafe who was selling an omelette for 11 quid, I decided that M & S food hall was a better option. After checking out, it was off to Paddington & the District line to Liverpool St station. From there, it was onto Newbury Park on the Central line. As you can see, I am becoming quite comfortable with the London transportation system, so all those hours of watching Great British Railway Journeys was being put to good use (thank you Michael Portillo).
Due to the track works on the rail line to Chelmsford, Helen and Iain were kind enough to meet me at Newbury Park station. From here, it was off to the tea room at Heybridge Basin for a coffee and scone with Maureen & Alayne. The place itself was alongside a canal lock, which for an Australian is a unique sight in itself. The fact that the tide was out leaving boats stranded on a bed of mud provided a slightly weird sight. I love the vibe of travel and big cities but sitting down with familiar faces in such a unique place was such a nice change of pace. It had been far too long between seeing each other and while I am an “in-law”, I couldn’t have felt any more welcome. From the tea-rooms, it was back to Iain & Helen’s to unpack the case and catch up with Callum. The first time I met him he was a little kid playing football, the next time a slightly bigger kid, this time I was confronted by a fully grown university student. After the inevitable chin-wag, it was off to the local curry house for a fantastic feed then back to watch Liverpool win (with a little help from the Leicester defender … twice). I can remember sitting in a pub in Prague in 2015 watching the same result against the same club, thank god lightning struck twice. Having the opportunity to catch up and having a chat was such an enjoyable experience. The day and lack of sleep finally caught up with me and it was off to see if the Nytol would help me sleep. Time certainly slips past at a rate of knots but it’s nice when you get the opportunity to spend time with good people.
Day 14 – London – 10/1/23
Well back in the UK for a few days before heading off for the final leg of the trip. After an early morning start out of Frankfurt, I landed in London to a rather damp welcome. Fortunately, I was able to get into the room at the hotel early so I could get rid of all my stuff.
First stop for the day was Camden Town. The idea behind revisiting this funky market district was a solid one, the weather however made it a very damp reunion. Still when you are on holiday you are likely to do dumb things. The weather was pretty atrocious if the truth be known. It was a kind of epiphany as I fully realised that my left waterproof boot was not so waterproof from sole. So with squelchy feet, I trudged down from Chalk Farm station towards the heart of Camden Apart from the Camden Markets, I went in search of the Amy Winehouse statue (which I duly found). The view of the old lock and canal is still brilliant even during a torrential down[pour (well maybe not torrential but it wasn’t a sprinkle either.
From here it was on to the British Library. Even though I had stayed across from here on more than one occasion, I had never been inside the facility. It really is an amazing place with so many treasures on display. I found myself viewing texts dating back to the 10th century as well as copies of the Magna Carta. Also getting to view the actual work of Wilfred Own and also Oscar Wilde was pretty special. It’s things like this that make places like the British Library special and very unique. For me however, the real kicker was a Beatles display which included the original lyrics to “A Hard Day’s Night” written by John on the back of a birthday card. It was as much about viewing the thought process that went behind the song as it was about seeing the actual lyrics. It did say not to photograph so in keeping with the concept of karma, I followed instructions.
The last two stops where to two of my happy places in London, The British Museum and The Borough markets (which may be in for revisits in the next couple of days). Every time i have been to London, the British Museum is a must-see, if not for the material held with the walls but for the stunning architecture within the building. Due to the inclement weather, it seemed like a few people had the same idea as myself regarding the need to be indoors. The first room was the Egypt room, which always seems to be as good a place to start at. Due to the fact that there was an exhibition on Egyptian hieroglyphics, the Rosetta Stone and a few other artefacts had been moved. Due to the fact that you needed a ticket, I didn’t hang around for too long. I did however, see a great little exhibition on Tutankhamun which contained a statue and a very modern artist impression of the King. It was actually quite cool and very much in step with the present day. Nice to see history being relevant to the younger people, especially in such a traditional institution as this.
The Borough Markets is very much about the senses being made to work overtime. The smells that emanate from the various stalls is like no place else. The first time I ever visited this place was partially by accident but it was the type of accident that I wish that could happen every day. It is a wonderful place and somewhere which I can come back to time and time again. While it is relatively upmarket nowadays, it still very much tells the story of people who frequented the area over the years. History is funny that way, as long as you can transport yourself back, places do tend to come alive.
After a walk back over London Bridge and a quick search for some supplies, it was back to the room for a rest. Maybe I might have a slower day tomorrow … I think I need it.
Day 15 – 11/1/23 – London
Well it’s been a little sunny, followed by a little rain and a little bit more rain and topped off with a bit of drizzle. It hasn’t been the best weather but when you are on holidays you make the best of it. After my first day i did take a slightly less than hectic approach to day 15. The legs went up and I wasn’t as quick to pile out the door. While I have taken my time on most days, I haven’t really stopped so it wasn’t a bad idea to take it easy.
After doing a little research on Dr Who, I found one shop in the East end of London at Upton Park (the former home of Tracy’s team, West Ham). While the ground is long gone (replaced by housing development), the link to the team and football was still very much alive in the area. If you like the Doctor (as my grandson and son do … and I am a little partial to it), this place is brilliant. it had a range of merchandise ranging key rings to Daleks and a young shop assistant (could have been the owner) that was obviously very knowledgeable. Another treat before getting to the shop was the haircut I got. Now that normally wouldn’t be earth shattering but this guy not only went the zero, he pulled out the electric razor to the sounds of an Indian pop record. It was honestly the best tenner I have spent while being here and may have changed the way I cut my hair. With my Doctor moment sated and my water repellant skull sorted, it was back to St Pancras and a bit of a rest.
Later in the day it was off for a quick look at Abbey Road (which I have never seen before) and experience the inevitable shower. It’s a wonder more people don’t get run over at the iconic crossing featured on Abbey Road. I was only there for about 5 mins but I counted at least 10 gooses … the rain must have attracted them. It was one of those things that you have to see, if you are from a generation of people whose life had been impacted by the Beatles. In truth, there wasn’t much to see there but it was simply the fact that I went and saw the studio and the crossing was enough. Somethings in life you just need to tick off and say you have done it, this was one of them.
From here, it was off to get ready for dinner with Danny Niven who has been teaching over here for a few years now. The one thing about good friends, you may not see each other for years but you pick up where you left off seamlessly. travelling solo is great but it is so nice to see familiar faces. We had dinner at a converted barge at Paddington Basin which was an experience in itself. It was nice to sit down and have a laugh about old times and just to catch up with a smiling face. Next time I’m over, it’s a visit to Reading and maybe a British school.
What started as a rest day was that in a way but still did plenty.
Day 16 – 12/1/23 London
Roll on a new day and surprise, a little more rain. I had plans today to get out to Greenwich just to prove once and for all that I was on time to Tracy but the weather had other plans. My stop was an unsuccessful visit to the Sir John Sloane Museum. Wayne Smart had put me onto it but unfortunately, it was being renovated at the time and was opening back up on January 18. Apparently it is a private collection of all sorts of artefacts and artwork so it will placed on the to do list for next time. From Holborn station, the underground took me in a direction toward’s St Paul’s and my aimless wandering started from that point. The best thing about walking with a partial purpose in London is that you will eventually find something of note. The first buildings of note that I came across was Christchurch Greyfriars Church Garden. The former church dates back to the 18th Century and was designed by Christopher Wren but was destroyed by incendiary bombs during the Blitz in 1940. Instead of pulling the building down, they planted a rose garden in 1989 where the main church was, a veritable oasis within a concrete desert. From here it was pass the Old Bailey and then I stumbled across another gem, the site where William Wallace was executed. I had remembered seeing the plaque before but I can honestly say I wasn’t looking for it. It was situated a stone throw away from Smithfield Market, which apparently has its own pretty gruesome history all of its won. I eventually made it to St Paul’s, which I last visited back in 2017. When I got there, I was met with a sign asking for a £23 entrance fee which I thought was a little steep. I totally understand that it is important for the upkeep of the building but … oh well, c’est la vie (just getting in some practise for tomorrow).
I had been meaning to visit Convent Garden and some stage of the visit so it was an easy stroll down to there to met with a soprano singing an aria. I have seen busking before but this was another level … very very impressed. After walking around the stalls and really finding nothing in particular, it was off to South Kensington for lunch with Anne-Marie McAdams. While I have enjoyed travelling alone over the past couple of weeks, it has been a blessing over the past two days to catch with good friends. A good chat, a nice meal and some catching up can definitely put the wind back into your sails for the rest of the trip ahead. By the time we had finished lunch, the London skies had well and truly opened up and I was lucky to find a space under a awning. With wet feet (which in all honesty, weren’t going to get much wetter), I made the executive decision to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum which was just around the corner. This again was another first for me and I am so glad I went. God knows I didn’t even scratch the surface of this place but it is an amazing museum. I walked through the sculpture room, through a jewellery room and then onto a theatre exhibition which boasted some amazing pieces. The most extraordinary feature of this place is the extremely diverse range of exhibits it presents. It has been has been recommended by many people on so many different occasions and I’m glad I took my damp feet through there. With the last rays of sunlight peaking out behind the clouds, I hightailed it to Westminster for the obligatory Big Ben & Thames pic.
It’s been good to be back in London. Getting to catch up with friends, seeing new places and revisiting old ones was fun. Off to France tomorrow and to visit very good friends at their guesthouse … travel is pretty groovy